Is the Partisan Memorial Cemetery safe to visit?

Yes, it is generally safe during the day. However, because it is located in a park area away from the main streets, it is recommended to visit during daylight hours when other visitors are likely to be present.

Who was Aleksa Šantić?

Aleksa Šantić was a famous Bosnian Serb poet from Mostar. He is a national icon known for his emotional poetry that reflects the multicultural spirit and social struggles of the city under Austro-Hungarian rule.

Is there an entrance fee for the sites on this walk?

Most stops, including Spanish Square and the Partisan Cemetery, are free public spaces. The Ćorović House functions as a museum and may charge a small entrance fee if you wish to see the interior exhibits.

What is the best time of day for this walking route?

The morning is ideal, as Mostar can become very hot in the afternoon. Late afternoon is also beautiful, especially for the sunset views from the Partisan Cemetery.

Can I do this walking route with a stroller?

The first five stops are stroller-friendly as they are on city sidewalks. However, the Partisan Memorial Cemetery has many stairs and uneven stone tiers that are not accessible for strollers.

What is the significance of Spanish Square?

Spanish Square is the central square of Mostar and serves as a symbol of the city's post-war reconstruction. It honors Spanish UN peacekeepers and sits on the former 'front line' of the 1990s conflict.

Are there places to eat along the route?

Yes, there are numerous cafes and bakeries around Spanish Square and along the Bulevar. Once you head up toward the Partisan Cemetery, options become more limited, so grab a snack earlier.

Mostar’s Literary and Revolutionary Souls | Self-Guided Walking Tour

About This Guided Walking Tour

While most visitors to Mostar congregate around the iconic Old Bridge, the city’s true intellectual and revolutionary heart lies just a short walk away in the Bjelušine neighborhood and along its Austro-Hungarian boulevards. This self-guided walk through Mostar’s literary and revolutionary history invites you to explore the lives of the poets, writers, and rebels who shaped the city’s cultural identity during the 19th and 20th centuries. You will move through spaces that transitioned from Ottoman influence to the grand architecture of the Hapsburg era, ending at a monumental site of Yugoslav modernism. Your journey begins at Spanish Square, the city's central meeting point, where the vibrant orange facade of the Mostar Gymnasium stands as a testament to the city's educational heritage. From here, the route delves into the lives of Mostar’s most beloved poets, Aleksa Šantić and Osman Đikić. You will discover how their work—often centered on themes of forbidden love and national identity—helped forge a unique multicultural consciousness. The walk highlights the stunning Austro-Hungarian influence on the city, visible in the National Library and the residential streets of Bjelušine. The final leg of this walking route takes you to the Partisan Memorial Cemetery, a hauntingly beautiful necropolis designed by the famed architect Bogdan Bogdanović. This site is not just a memorial to those who fell during World War II, but a masterpiece of landscape architecture that offers a panoramic view of the city. This neighborhood stroll is perfect for those who want to understand the deeper layers of Mostar's history beyond the postcards, focusing on the people and ideas that once made this city the 'Athens of Herzegovina.' By exploring at your own pace, you can truly soak in the atmosphere of a city that has always been a crossroads of East and West.

Tour Highlights & Things to See

The vibrant Austro-Hungarian architecture of the Mostar Gymnasium
The poetic legacy of Aleksa Šantić and his famous poem 'Emina'
The hidden mausoleum of the revolutionary poet Osman Đikić
The National Library, a symbol of Mostar's intellectual resilience
The breathtaking landscape design of the Partisan Memorial Cemetery
Panoramic views of Mostar from the city's western slopes

Route Map

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour.

Tour Stops & Points of Interest (6)

1

Spanish Square

Welcome to Spanish Square, the modern heart of Mostar. This square serves as a symbolic bridge between the eastern and western parts of the city. The most striking building here is the Mostar Gymnasium, built in 1898 during the Austro-Hungarian administration. Its bright orange facade and Moorish Revival style were intended to blend European architectural standards with the city's Islamic heritage. Named in honor of the Spanish soldiers who served as peacekeepers during the 1990s conflict, the square is a place of gathering and reflection. As you stand here, look around at the mix of styles—from the grand Hapsburg structures to the modern glass buildings nearby. This square marks the beginning of our journey into the minds and spirits that defined Mostar’s intellectual golden age.

2

Osman Đikić’s Mausoleum

A short walk from the square brings you to the final resting place of Osman Đikić. He was a prominent Bosnian poet, dramatist, and publicist who lived at the turn of the 20th century. Đikić is best remembered for his romantic and patriotic verses, but his personal life was equally poetic. He famously fell in love with Zorka Šola, a woman from a prominent Serbian Orthodox family. Their love story, which defied the strict social and religious boundaries of the time, became a symbol of Mostar’s syncretic culture. The mausoleum itself is a beautiful example of traditional craftsmanship, honoring a man who used his pen to advocate for cultural unity and independence. Take a moment to appreciate the quiet dignity of this site, tucked away from the main tourist paths.

3

Aleksa Šantić Statue

You are now standing before the statue of Aleksa Šantić, the most famous son of Mostar. If Mostar has a soul, it is found in Šantić’s poetry. Born in 1868, he spent his entire life in this city, capturing its essence in his verses. His most famous poem, 'Emina,' tells the story of a beautiful girl he saw in a neighbor’s garden; it is so beloved that it has become a standard folk song throughout the Balkans. Šantić was a man of deep empathy who wrote about the struggles of the common people and the beauty of the Neretva River. His statue here, looking out over the city he loved, serves as a reminder of a time when Mostar was a thriving center for literature and the arts.

4

National Library Mostar

This elegant building is the National Library, formerly the 'Girls' School' during the Austro-Hungarian era. Its architecture reflects the 'Bosnian Style,' a blend of European proportions and local decorative elements. Throughout the 20th century, this building served as a beacon of education and culture. During the 1990s, like many cultural institutions in Mostar, it suffered significant damage but has since been restored. It stands today as a symbol of the city's commitment to preserving its intellectual history. The library houses collections that include the works of the very poets we are discussing today, ensuring that the 'revolutionary souls' of Mostar are never forgotten by future generations.

5

The Birthplace of Svetozar Ćorović

Svetozar Ćorović was a leading Serbian novelist and a close friend and brother-in-law to Aleksa Šantić. His birthplace, now a memorial house, offers a glimpse into the domestic life of Mostar’s 19th-century elite. Ćorović’s writing was deeply rooted in the social reality of Herzegovina, depicting the life of small-town merchants and the transition from Ottoman to Austrian rule with sharp observation and humor. Together with Šantić and Đikić, Ćorović helped establish the literary journal 'Zora' (Dawn), which became one of the most influential cultural publications in the region. The house stands as a monument to the collaborative spirit of Mostar’s intelligentsia, where writers of different backgrounds worked together to create a shared literary heritage.

6

Partisan Memorial Cemetery

Our walk concludes at the Partisan Memorial Cemetery, one of the most significant modernist monuments in the Balkans. Built between 1959 and 1965 by architect Bogdan Bogdanović, it is a 'city of the dead' that mirrors the 'city of the living' across the river. The cemetery honors the 810 Partisans from Mostar who died fighting fascism during World War II. Bogdanović used cosmic and organic symbols—suns, planets, and flowing water—rather than traditional ideological imagery. The result is a surreal, dreamlike landscape of winding stone paths and flower-shaped headstones. As you climb the terraces, you are rewarded with an incredible view of Mostar. It is a place of profound silence and beauty, representing the ultimate sacrifice of the city's revolutionary youth.

Start Free on iPhone

Start your private guided tour now

Explore “Mostar’s Literary and Revolutionary Souls” with your very own Private Tour Guide with Zigway. Start free on iPhone, skip the large group and the fixed routes, and hear the city come alive as you go.

Start free on iPhone

Your Private Tour Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

The entire walking route takes about 90 to 120 minutes depending on your pace. The walk from the city center to the cemetery entrance is roughly 15-20 minutes.