How long does it take to walk through the Jewish Quarter in Seville?

A thorough exploration typically takes 60 to 90 minutes. The distance is less than 1.5 kilometers, but the narrow, winding streets of the Judería encourage a slower pace to appreciate the architecture and hidden details.

Is the Santa Cruz neighborhood safe at night?

Yes, Santa Cruz is generally very safe at night and is actually quite popular for evening strolls. The lighting makes the whitewashed alleys very atmospheric, though it is always wise to stay aware of your surroundings in the narrower, quieter passages.

Can I visit the Santa Cruz neighborhood for free?

Absolutely. The neighborhood itself is a public residential area. While some specific buildings like the Hospital de los Venerables require a ticket, the plazas, the city walls, and the historic streets like Calle Susona are free to explore independently.

What is the legend of Calle Susona?

It is the story of a Jewish girl who betrayed her father's rebellion to her Christian lover. In her grief and guilt, she requested her skull be hung over her door after death. Today, a commemorative tile with a skull marks the spot on the street formerly known as 'Death Street'.

What is the Cross of the Locksmith?

Located in Plaza de Santa Cruz, the 'Cruz del Cerrajo' is a famous 17th-century wrought-iron cross. It is considered a masterpiece of ironwork and stands on the site of the parish church that was destroyed during the Napoleonic occupation.

Where did Washington Irving stay in Seville?

The author of 'Tales of the Alhambra' stayed in a house along the Callejón del Agua, near the city walls. This street was a favorite of 19th-century Romantic travelers who were drawn to Seville's exotic and historic charm.

Is this walking route accessible for strollers?

It is moderately accessible. While there are no stairs on this specific route, the historic cobblestones can be bumpy, and some alleys are extremely narrow. Standard strollers usually manage, but it may be a bit of a 'bumpy ride'.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the labyrinthine heart of Seville's historic Jewish quarter with this self-guided walk through the Barrio de Santa Cruz. As the sun begins to set and the shadows lengthen against the whitewashed walls, the neighborhood transforms into a stage for centuries-old legends and whispered secrets. This walking route is designed for those who want to experience the atmospheric soul of Seville beyond the typical tourist paths, focusing on the layers of history that define the Judería. You will navigate narrow alleys where the balconies nearly touch, discover hidden plazas scented with orange blossoms, and uncover the tragic and romantic tales that have inspired poets and playwrights for generations. This self-guided adventure allows you to explore the neighborhood's complex past—from its prosperity as a medieval Jewish community to its eventual transformation into the romantic heart of the city. Along the way, you will encounter the legacy of the great painter Murillo, the myth of the legendary seducer Don Juan Tenorio, and the heartbreaking story of Susona, the girl who betrayed her family for love. While a walking tour Seville often focuses only on the Cathedral, this audio walk delves deeper into the architectural nuances and cultural shifts of Santa Cruz. You will see how former synagogues became ornate Baroque churches and how the city's ancient Roman walls still serve as the backdrop for daily life. Whether you are a history buff or a fan of literary romance, this neighborhood stroll offers a profound connection to the spirits of Seville's past. By choosing a self-guided route, you can pause to admire a secluded patio or enjoy a glass of sherry in a local tavern whenever the mood strikes, ensuring your exploration of the Judería is as personal as it is enlightening. Prepare to get lost in the best possible way as you trace the 'Shadows of the Judería' at your own pace.

Highlights

Explore the 'Death Street' and the tragic legend of Susona

Discover the Baroque splendor of a synagogue-turned-church

Find the statue of the legendary literary rogue, Don Juan Tenorio

Walk the 'Water Alley' alongside the ancient city walls

Visit the site of the original Santa Cruz church and Murillo's burial

Relax in the iconic, tile-adorned Plaza de Doña Elvira

Tour Stops (6)

Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca

Begin your exploration at one of Seville's most layered religious sites. This church is a physical timeline of the city's history. Originally built as a synagogue in the 13th century, it was later converted into a mosque before becoming the Catholic church you see today. While the exterior is modest, the interior is a masterpiece of Spanish Baroque architecture, featuring stunning plasterwork and paintings by Murillo. It is named 'the White' not just for its walls, but in honor of the Virgin of the Snows. As you stand here, imagine the transition of this space from a center of Jewish life in the Judería to a symbol of the Christian reconquest.

Plaza de los Refinadores

Entering this quiet plaza, you are greeted by the bronze gaze of Don Juan Tenorio. This legendary character, the ultimate Spanish rogue and seducer, was immortalized by José Zorrilla. Although Don Juan is a fictional creation, he is deeply woven into the fabric of Seville. The statue stands here because the surrounding streets of Santa Cruz provided the backdrop for his literary escapades and duels. The plaza itself, with its traditional streetlamps and quiet benches, captures the romantic, slightly dangerous allure of 17th-century Seville. It serves as a reminder of how the city's real history and its literary myths are often inseparable.

Plaza de Santa Cruz

This plaza is the spiritual heart of the neighborhood and occupies the site of what was once the most important church in the Jewish quarter. The church was demolished in the early 19th century, but the space remains sacred; it is believed that the famous painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo was buried beneath what is now the garden. In the center stands the 'Cruz del Cerrajo' or the Cross of the Locksmith, an intricate 17th-century ironwork masterpiece. The square is surrounded by bitter orange trees, which fill the air with fragrance every spring, creating a peaceful sanctuary that belies the neighborhood's often turbulent history.

Calle Susona

Tucked away in the labyrinth is a street with a dark name: the 'Calle de la Muerte' or Death Street, now officially Calle Susona. Look for the small tile depicting a skull. This marks the home of Susona Ben Susón, a young Jewish woman in the 15th century who fell in love with a Christian knight. To save him, she betrayed her father's plot for an uprising. The plot was foiled, and her family was executed. Overcome by guilt, Susona requested that upon her death, her head be placed over her door as a warning. The legend says it remained there for centuries. Today, the street is a hauntingly beautiful reminder of the personal tragedies that occurred during the Inquisition.

Callejón del Agua

This narrow passage runs directly alongside the old Almohad city walls. Its name, 'Water Alley,' comes from the pipes that once ran atop the wall, carrying water from the Guadalquivir River to the gardens of the Real Alcázar. On your left, the walls are thick and ancient; on your right, the houses feature some of the most beautiful hidden patios in Seville, visible through wrought-iron gates. Washington Irving, the American author of 'Tales of the Alhambra,' once resided in a house at the end of this street. The mix of bougainvillea spilling over the walls and the cool shade makes this one of the most photographed spots in the city.

Plaza de Doña Elvira

Conclude your walk in what many consider Seville's most charming square. Plaza de Doña Elvira is a classic example of Sevillian urban design, with its central fountain, tiled benches (azulejos), and meticulously pruned orange trees. In literary lore, this plaza was the site of the house of Don Gonzalo de Ulloa, the father of Doña Inés in the Don Juan story. Before the 17th century, this area housed a famous 'corral de comedias' or open-air theater. Today, it is the perfect place to sit and soak in the atmosphere of Santa Cruz. The echoes of the past—from theatrical performances to medieval whispers—seem to linger in the quiet rustle of the leaves.

Frequently Asked Questions

The best way to experience Santa Cruz is a self-guided audio walk that focuses on legends and hidden plazas. This route covers the Judería's history, starting at Santa María la Blanca and ending at Plaza de Doña Elvira, allowing you to avoid the crowds of a large guided tour Seville.