What are the marks on the walls in Plaça de Sant Felip Neri?

The marks are shrapnel damage from a 1938 bombing during the Spanish Civil War. They serve as a memorial to the 42 people, mostly children, who died when the square was hit by Italian aircraft.

Can I visit Refugi 307 without a booking?

It is highly recommended to check the MUHBA website for hours. While you can sometimes walk in, it is part of the City History Museum and often operates on a schedule for entry.

Is the walk to Bunkers del Carmel difficult?

The walk is a moderate climb. While the path is paved, it is quite steep; taking the V19 or 24 bus will get you close to the top, leaving only a 5-10 minute walk to the summit.

Where can I see George Orwell's history in Barcelona?

This walk covers Plaça de Catalunya, where Orwell participated in the 'May Days' fighting of 1937. You can also visit the nearby Plaça de George Orwell in the Gothic Quarter.

Is this walking tour Barcelona suitable for children?

Yes, though the themes are somber. The air-raid shelter (Refugi 307) and the Bunkers provide tangible, engaging history that is often interesting for older children and students.

What is the best time to visit the Bunkers del Carmel?

The best time is early morning for solitude or late afternoon for the views. Note that the city council occasionally restricts access after dark to manage crowds.

Are there many stairs on this self-guided walk?

The Gothic Quarter is flat, but reaching the Bunkers and navigating the Refugi 307 involves stairs and slopes. It is manageable for those with moderate fitness.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step back into the 1930s with this self-guided walk that traces the dramatic events of the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona. While the city is often celebrated for its Modernist beauty, this route reveals the hidden scars and resilient spirit of a population that faced intense aerial bombardment and ideological struggle. Your exploration begins at the intersection of power and protest in Plaça de Catalunya, where the 1936 military uprising was initially thwarted by local resistance. As you navigate the winding streets of the Gothic Quarter and move toward the hillside of Poble Sec, you will uncover the layers of history that transformed Barcelona into a laboratory for social revolution and a target for the first systematic bombing of a civilian population in modern warfare. This walking route highlights the physical remnants of the conflict, from the haunting shrapnel marks in secluded squares to the sophisticated network of underground air-raid shelters. You will learn about the role of international figures like George Orwell, the anarchist movements that briefly reshaped the city's social fabric, and the strategic importance of the anti-aircraft batteries that once defended the skyline. This journey offers a somber yet essential perspective on Barcelona’s identity, providing a narrative of survival and memory that persists long after the guns fell silent. Whether you are a history buff or a curious traveler, this self-guided walk provides the context needed to understand why these events remain so central to Catalan culture today. By following this route, you can explore the sites of major skirmishes, see the places where citizens sought refuge, and end with a panoramic view of the city from a defensive vantage point that once guarded against the Italian Legionary Air Force.

Highlights

The site of the 1936 uprising at the former Hotel Colón

Haunting shrapnel marks in the quiet Plaça de Sant Felip Neri

Evidence of anticlerical fervor at the ancient Sant Pere of the Puelles

The underground civilian defense network at Refugi 307

Panoramic views and anti-aircraft history at Bunkers del Carmel

Tour Stops (6)

Apple Passeig de Gràcia

Before this corner became a hub for modern technology, it was the site of the prestigious Hotel Colón. In July 1936, at the start of the Spanish Civil War, this building was seized by the PSUC (United Socialist Party of Catalonia) and became their headquarters. Looking at old photographs, you would see a massive portrait of Stalin and banners celebrating the international communist movement draped across the facade. This building stood as a symbol of the radical political shift in Barcelona, where workers' militias and socialist groups took control of the city's most luxurious spaces to organize their resistance against the military coup. It serves as the perfect starting point to understand how the war turned everyday urban life upside down.

Plaça de Catalunya

Plaça de Catalunya is the heart of Barcelona and was the epicenter of the initial fighting in July 1936. When the military tried to seize control of the city, they were met here by armed workers, civil guards, and assault guards who remained loyal to the Republic. The square was a scene of chaos, with barricades built from cobblestones and overturned trams. George Orwell, who arrived later to fight for the POUM militia, famously described the atmosphere of revolutionary Barcelona in his book 'Homage to Catalonia,' noting how the bourgeois dress had disappeared and everyone addressed each other as 'comrade.' This square transitioned from a site of military conflict to the symbolic center of a social revolution.

Plaça de Sant Felip Neri

This secluded square holds one of the most tragic stories of the war. On January 30, 1938, the Italian Aviazione Legionaria, flying for Franco's forces, dropped bombs that struck the church and the surrounding buildings. Many of the victims were children from a nearby school who had sought shelter in the church basement. If you look closely at the lower walls of the church, you can still see the jagged holes and pockmarks left by the shrapnel. For years, the Francoist regime claimed these marks were from execution squads to cover up the horror of the aerial bombardment, but the truth remains etched in the stone— a silent memorial to the first time a city’s civilian population was systematically targeted from the air.

Sant Pere of the Puelles

The Spanish Civil War was marked by intense anticlerical violence, particularly in Barcelona where the church was seen by many revolutionaries as an ally of the ruling elite. Sant Pere of the Puelles, one of the city's oldest religious sites, was not spared. During the 'Red Terror' in the early days of the conflict, the church was set on fire and looted, a fate shared by many religious buildings across the city. This stop illustrates the deep ideological divisions of the era. While some fought to protect these ancient structures, others saw their destruction as a necessary step in dismantling the old social order. The restored facade hides a history of fire and fury that defined the summer of 1936.

Refugi 307. Museu d’Història de Barcelona

As the war progressed and bombings became a frequent reality, the people of Barcelona took their safety into their own hands. Refugi 307 is one of more than 1,400 air-raid shelters tunnels dug by citizens. This specific shelter in the Poble Sec neighborhood features nearly 400 meters of tunnels, complete with a kitchen, a basic infirmary, and toilets. Walking through these narrow, damp corridors, you get a sense of the fear and the incredible community organization required to survive. It wasn't just a place to hide; it was a testament to the 'passive defense' strategy where neighbors worked together to protect one another from the bombs falling from above.

Bunkers del Carmel

Perched atop the Turó de la Rovira, the Bunkers del Carmel were never actually bunkers for hiding, but rather anti-aircraft battery emplacements built in 1937. From this height, Republican forces used Vickers guns to try and shoot down the Savoia-Marchetti bombers coming from the sea. After the war, the site was stripped of its weaponry and became a 'shanty town' known as 'Els Canons,' housing thousands of immigrants for decades. Today, it offers the most spectacular 360-degree view of Barcelona. As you look out over the city, you can trace the entire path of the conflict, from the harbor where the planes approached to the dense neighborhoods that bore the brunt of the attacks.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full route takes approximately 3 hours. This includes walking time, narration, and time to explore the Bunkers and Refugi 307, though transit between Poble Sec and the Bunkers is recommended.