How long does it take to walk the Alfalfa route?

The walk typically takes 60 to 90 minutes. This includes time to admire the Roman columns and stop for photos at the Church of El Salvador.

Is the Alfalfa neighborhood in Seville worth visiting?

Yes, it is highly recommended for those wanting an authentic experience. It is less touristy than Santa Cruz and contains significant Roman ruins and the city's second-largest church.

Can I see Roman ruins in Seville for free?

Yes, the Roman Columns on Calle Mármoles are accessible 24/7 for free. They are located on a public street and represent some of the best-preserved Roman remains in the city center.

What is the most famous landmark in the Alfalfa district?

The Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador is the most iconic landmark. Its massive pink facade and Baroque architecture make it a centerpiece of the neighborhood.

Is the Alfalfa walking route suitable for families?

Yes, it is family-friendly. Plaza de la Alfalfa has a playground and is a pedestrian-heavy area where children can safely run around while parents enjoy the atmosphere.

When is the best time of day to explore Alfalfa?

Morning is best for a quiet, historic feel, while late afternoon (around 7:00 PM) is ideal to experience the vibrant 'tapas culture' the neighborhood is known for.

Are there many hills on this Seville walking route?

No, this route is almost entirely flat. Seville's historic center is very level, making this an easy stroll for travelers of all fitness levels.

Do I need tickets for the stops on this walk?

The plazas and Roman columns are free. However, the Palace of Lebrija and the Church of El Salvador require paid entry if you wish to see their interiors.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the heart of Seville’s oldest quarters with this self-guided walk through the Alfalfa neighborhood, a place where the city’s ancient Roman foundations literally peek through the modern pavement. This walking route is designed for those who want to peel back the layers of time at their own pace, moving from the towering granite pillars of the Roman Empire to the gilded excesses of the Spanish Baroque. The Alfalfa district is one of Seville's most authentic pockets, a maze of narrow streets that has served as a center of commerce and social life for over two millennia. Your journey begins at the hidden Roman Columns of Calle Mármoles, some of the last remaining vestiges of the city’s imperial past. From there, you will navigate toward the Plaza de la Alfalfa, a vibrant square that remains a local favorite for tapas and morning coffee, but which once served as the Roman Forum and later a bustling medieval market. As you progress through this neighborhood stroll, the architecture shifts. You will encounter the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador, a monumental church built directly over the footprint of Seville's main mosque. Its pink facade and intricate interior carvings represent the pinnacle of Sevillian Baroque art. Further along, the route takes you to the Palace of the Countess of Lebrija, often called the 'best paved palace in Europe' due to its staggering collection of Roman mosaics salvaged from the nearby ruins of Italica. This self-guided adventure concludes in the sensory-rich world of flamenco at the Casa de la Memoria, situated in a beautifully restored 16th-century courtyard. Whether you are a history buff or an architecture lover, this walking route Seville offers a seamless blend of ancient heritage and modern Andalusian life without the rigid schedule of a guided tour Seville. Explore independently and discover why Alfalfa remains the soul of the city.

Highlights

The 2,000-year-old Roman Columns of Calle Mármoles

The lively social atmosphere of Plaza de la Alfalfa

The monumental Baroque interior of El Salvador Church

Exquisite Roman mosaics at the Palace of Lebrija

The traditional Andalusian patio of Casa de la Memoria

The hidden history of Seville's former Roman Forum

Tour Stops (6)

Columnas Romanas (Calle Mármoles)

Hidden in a narrow side street, these three massive granite columns are the silent giants of Seville’s Roman past. Dating back to the 1st century AD, they likely formed part of a grand temple in the city of Hispalis. Standing nearly 15 meters tall, it is incredible to think they have remained in this very spot for two millennia while the city rose around them. Originally there were six columns; two were moved to the Alameda de Hércules in the 16th century, and one was broken during transport. Notice how the modern street level is much higher than the base of the columns, a literal illustration of how Seville is built on layers of history.

Plaza de la Alfalfa

Plaza de la Alfalfa is the beating heart of this neighborhood. Historically, this was the site of the Roman Forum, the center of public life in Hispalis. During the Moorish era and later the Christian reconquest, it evolved into a major market for silk and alfalfa—the latter giving the square its modern name. Today, it is a local-favorite spot where children play and residents gather at traditional bars. The architecture here is a patchwork of styles, but the vibe is purely Sevillian. It is the perfect place to pause and observe the daily rhythm of the city, away from the more crowded tourist hubs near the Cathedral.

Plaza de Jesús de la Pasión

Formerly known as Plaza del Pan (Bread Square), this space sits in the shadow of the great Salvador Church. It was once the center of the city's bakery trade. The square is dominated by a statue of Martínez Montañés, the master sculptor of the Spanish Golden Age whose lifelike religious figures are still carried through these streets during Holy Week. The atmosphere here changes from the commercial bustle of the nearby shopping streets to a more contemplative, historic feel. Look up at the traditional balconies and the ochre-and-white color palette that defines the Sevillian aesthetic.

Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador

This is the second largest church in Seville, surpassed only by the Cathedral. Its scale is breathtaking, but its history is even more fascinating. It stands on the site of the Ibn Adabbas Mosque, Seville’s first Great Mosque. If you look at the base of the bell tower, you can still see parts of the old minaret. The current Baroque structure, completed in the early 18th century, is a masterpiece of light and gold. The interior features some of the most spectacular 'retablos' (altarpieces) in Spain. It represents the triumph of the Counter-Reformation, designed to awe and inspire through sheer architectural scale and artistic detail.

Palace of the Countess of Lebrija

This 16th-century manor house is a hidden gem of Seville. In the early 1900s, the Countess of Lebrija purchased the building and spent years filling it with archaeological treasures. Most notably, she paved the ground floor with stunning Roman mosaics salvaged from the nearby ruins of Italica. Walking through the rooms, you are literally stepping on ancient history. The palace is a unique blend of Mudéjar, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, featuring a beautiful central courtyard and a library of over 4,000 volumes. It offers a rare glimpse into the private life of the Spanish aristocracy and their passion for preserving the past.

Casa de la Memoria Centro Cultural Flamenco

Our journey concludes at this cultural center housed in a late 16th-century building. While many associate flamenco with the Triana district, Alfalfa has long been a hub for the traditional arts. The Casa de la Memoria is dedicated to preserving the purity of flamenco, away from the commercial 'dinner shows.' The building itself features a classic Andalusian patio with horseshoe arches and vibrant tiles. It serves as a reminder that Seville’s history isn't just in its stones and mosaics, but in the living, breathing music and dance that still echo through these ancient streets today.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Alfalfa Trail is the best route for exploring the neighborhood. It covers the Roman Columns, Plaza de la Alfalfa, and the Palace of Lebrija, offering a perfect mix of ancient history and local culture.