How long does it take to walk the northern ghats of Varanasi?

The walk typically takes between 90 to 120 minutes depending on your pace. This includes time to stop at major landmarks like the Bindu Madhav Temple and to climb the steps at Pancha Ganga Ghat for photos.

Is the northern part of Varanasi worth visiting?

Yes, it is absolutely worth visiting for those seeking a quieter, more historical experience. Unlike the busy southern ghats, the north offers 'hidden gems' like the 17th-century Alamgir Masjid and a deeper look into the city's Maratha-era reconstruction.

Can I see the Alamgir Masjid on a self-guided walk?

Yes, the Alamgir Masjid is a primary landmark on this route. While the interior access may be restricted during prayer times, the exterior architecture and its position overlooking Pancha Ganga Ghat are easily visible from the riverfront steps.

What is the best time to visit Pancha Ganga Ghat?

The best time is at sunrise to witness the morning rituals or during the month of Kartik (Oct/Nov) for the light festival. Early morning offers the best light for photography and cooler temperatures for walking.

Is the walking route in Varanasi difficult?

The difficulty is moderate. While the distance is not great, the route involves climbing several sets of steep stone stairs and navigating narrow, sometimes uneven, ancient alleyways.

Where does the 'Forgotten North' walk start and end?

The route starts at Trilochan Ghat in the north and concludes at Gaay Ghat. It passes through significant historical sites like Ram Ghat and the Bindu Madhav Temple along the way.

Are there places to eat along the northern ghats?

There are fewer tourist cafes in the north compared to the south. You will find local tea stalls and small shops selling snacks, but it is recommended to have a full meal near the city center before or after the walk.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Venture beyond the crowded main steps of Varanasi to discover the quiet majesty of the northern ghats. This self-guided walk explores a fascinating layer of the city where the legacy of the Mughal Empire meets the architectural revival of the Maratha kings. While most visitors congregate around the southern riverfront, the northern stretch from Trilochan to Gaay Ghat offers a more contemplative experience, characterized by massive stone bastions, hidden temples, and the towering minarets of the Alamgir Masjid. On this neighborhood stroll, you will witness the unique cultural synthesis that defines Varanasi's skyline. The route highlights the transition from the 17th-century Islamic influence under Emperor Aurangzeb to the 18th-century Maratha resurgence that rebuilt much of the riverfront. You will explore the site where five mythical rivers are said to meet and see the grand mansions built by Peshwas and Maharajas. This walking route Varanasi provides is perfect for those who want to escape the typical tourist trail and understand the complex history of India's oldest living city. Along the way, you can admire the intricate stonework of the Bindu Madhav Temple and the stark, elegant lines of the mosque that stands above it. This is a journey through the 'Forgotten North,' where the silence of the alleyways is broken only by the sound of temple bells and the gentle lapping of the Ganges. Whether you are interested in historical architecture or religious history, this self-guided adventure offers a deep dive into the soul of the city at your own pace. For a truly immersive experience, this walking tour Varanasi offers a window into the daily lives of the locals who have inhabited these ancient neighborhoods for generations.

Highlights

The towering minarets and panoramic views from Alamgir Masjid

The mythological confluence of five rivers at Pancha Ganga Ghat

Intricate Maratha-style architecture at Ram Ghat

The ancient spiritual significance of Trilochan Ghat

The hidden history of the original Bindu Madhav Temple

Peaceful riverfront views away from the Dashashwamedh crowds

Tour Stops (6)

Trilochan Ghat

Begin your self-guided walk at Trilochan Ghat, named after the 'Three-Eyed' Lord Shiva. This is one of the oldest and most spiritually significant ghats in the northern cluster. Observe the two natural springs, known as 'tirthas,' which pilgrims believe are the eyes of the deity. The atmosphere here is noticeably different from the central ghats; it is quieter and more focused on local rituals. The massive stone steps and the presence of the Trilochaneshwar Temple nearby reflect the ancient roots of this neighborhood. Take a moment to look south toward the rest of the city to see how the river curves, providing a grand perspective of the Varanasi skyline.

Ram Ghat

As you move south, you reach Ram Ghat, a prime example of the Maratha influence on Varanasi. Built by the Raja of Jaipur in the 18th century, this ghat is dedicated to Lord Ram. Notice the distinct architectural style of the surrounding buildings—sturdy, fort-like structures with small balconies. This area was a hub for the Maratha revival during a time when the city was being physically reconstructed after centuries of conflict. The small temple dedicated to Ram here is a site of great devotion during the festival of Ram Navami. The stone platforms jutting into the water are often used by local priests and bathers for morning prayers.

Alamgir Masjid

Standing high above the riverbank is the Alamgir Masjid, an iconic landmark of the northern riverfront. Built by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the late 17th century, the mosque stands on the site of the original, much larger Bindu Madhav Temple. The architecture is a blend of Islamic and Hindu influences, with the lower portions of the structure still reflecting the temple's original foundations. While the towering minarets were shortened over the years for stability, the mosque remains the most prominent feature of the skyline here. It serves as a powerful symbol of the layers of history that define Varanasi, where different faiths and eras are literally stacked upon one another.

Pancha Ganga Ghat

Directly below the mosque lies Pancha Ganga Ghat, the 'Ghat of the Five Ganges.' Tradition holds that five rivers—the Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Kirana, and Dhutapapa—meet here underground. This is considered one of the five most sacred spots on the riverfront. Look for the stone pillars where lamps are lit during the month of Kartik (usually October or November). During the Dev Deepawali festival, thousands of small oil lamps are placed in bamboo baskets and hoisted into the air, creating a 'galaxy' of light. The massive stone steps here were largely patronized by the Maratha Peshwas, emphasizing the royal heritage of this specific location.

Bindu Madhav Temple

Just behind the Alamgir Masjid, tucked away in the narrow lanes, you will find the present-day Bindu Madhav Temple. After the original grand temple was replaced by the mosque, this smaller but highly significant temple was established to house the deity Vishnu. It remains one of the most important Vishnu shrines in the city. The temple reflects the resilience of local traditions; despite the changes to the physical landscape, the spiritual geography of the area remained intact. Inside, the atmosphere is intimate and serene, offering a sharp contrast to the monumental scale of the mosque outside. It is a vital stop for understanding the continuity of worship in Varanasi.

Gaay Ghat

Concluding your neighborhood stroll is Gaay Ghat, the 'Cow Ghat.' This area marks the northern boundary of the more densely packed riverfront. It is famous for a large stone statue of a cow, which gives the ghat its name. Historically, this was a place where cattle were brought to the river, but today it is a peaceful retreat favored by students and locals looking for a quiet spot to read or meditate. The architecture here is simpler, reflecting the transition into the more residential and less commercial northern outskirts. From here, you can watch the boats drift by or find a local tea stall in the lanes behind the ghat to reflect on your journey through the forgotten north.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk from Trilochan Ghat to Gaay Ghat is widely considered the best way to see the northern riverfront. This route covers approximately 1.5 kilometers and showcases the unique blend of Mughal and Maratha architecture, including the famous Alamgir Masjid and Pancha Ganga Ghat.