Self-guided audio tour in Verona
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Start free on iPhone to unlock this self-guided walking tour in Verona. Hear all the stories that make it amazing, walk at your own pace, and begin whenever you want.
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As the sun dips below the Adige River and the crowds of day-trippers depart, Verona transforms into a realm of long shadows and illuminated limestone. This self-guided walk invites you to experience the 'City of Love' through a different lens—one of ancient mysteries, medieval power struggles, and local legends that only reveal themselves after dark. While many visitors stick to the well-trodden path toward Juliet’s balcony, this route steers you through the heart of the Città Antica to uncover the Roman foundations and Gothic masterpieces that define Verona's true character. This neighborhood stroll captures the transition from the bustling commerce of the Roman era to the fierce dynastic pride of the Scaliger family. Your journey begins at the majestic Corso Porta Borsari, once the main entrance to the Roman city, where soldiers and merchants entered under the watchful eyes of imperial guards. From there, you will wander toward the vibrant Piazza delle Erbe, where the Madonna Verona fountain stands as a testament to the city's enduring resilience. One of the most intriguing highlights of this walking route is the Arco della Costa, where a mysterious bone hangs above the passage, waiting for a person of pure heart to pass beneath it. As you move deeper into the medieval center, the Arche Scaligere provides a dramatic night view of the ornate tombs of Verona's former rulers, their stone effigies standing silent guard in the moonlight. This walking tour Verona experience is designed for those who prefer to explore independently, allowing you to pause for a glass of Valpolicella at a local enoteca or simply soak in the atmosphere of the illuminated piazzas. By following this audio walk, you'll discover how the layers of history—from Roman excavations at Porta Leoni to the Romanesque charm of Santa Maria Antica—weave together to create the enchanting tapestry of modern Verona. Whether you are a history buff or a fan of local lore, this neighborhood stroll offers a peaceful yet provocative look at one of Italy's most historic urban centers.
Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour.
Standing before the grand facade of Porta Borsari, you are looking at what was the main gateway into the Roman city of Verona. Built in the 1st century AD and later renovated by Emperor Gallienus, this limestone structure served as the 'Iovia Portata,' named after the nearby temple of Jupiter. In the medieval era, it took the name 'Borsari' from the 'bursarii,' the customs officers who collected taxes from merchants entering the city. At night, the illumination highlights the intricate carvings and two tiers of arched windows. Imagine the rhythmic sound of Roman sandals and wooden carts echoing through these arches nearly two thousand years ago. Today, it marks the transition into one of Verona's most elegant shopping streets, but its ancient stones remain a silent witness to the city's imperial past.
In the center of Piazza delle Erbe stands the Madonna Verona Fountain, a beautiful assembly of history. While the fountain was commissioned by Cansignorio della Scala in 1368, the statue at its peak is actually a Roman sculpture dating back to 380 AD. This 'Madonna' is not the Virgin Mary, but rather a personification of the city itself. She holds a copper scroll bearing the city's ancient motto, signifying Verona's status as a provider of justice and commerce. At night, the market stalls are packed away, and the fountain becomes a quiet focal point of the square. It serves as a bridge between Verona’s Roman heritage and its medieval resurgence, standing atop what was once the Roman Forum, the very heart of public life in the ancient city.
As you pass through the archway connecting Piazza delle Erbe to Piazza dei Signori, look up. Suspended from the ceiling is a large, weathered bone. This is the Arco della Costa, or 'Arch of the Rib.' Local legend claims it is the rib of the Devil, or perhaps a whale bone brought back by crusaders. The most famous bit of lore, however, suggests that the bone will fall upon the first person to walk under it who has never told a lie. Despite centuries of popes, kings, and honest citizens passing beneath, the bone remains firmly in place. While scientists identify it as a whale rib likely used as a souvenir or a sign for an early apothecary, the mystery of how and why it was hung here remains a cherished part of Verona's local lore.
The Arche Scaligere are perhaps the most stunning example of Gothic funerary art in Italy. These are the monumental tombs of the Della Scala family, the lords who ruled Verona with an iron fist and a love for the arts during the 13th and 14th centuries. Under the moonlight, the wrought-iron fence—featuring the recurring 'ladder' (scala) motif—casts dramatic shadows across the stone sarcophagi. You can see the tombs of Cangrande I, Mastino II, and Cansignorio, each more ornate than the last. Cangrande, the most famous of the line, was a patron of Dante Alighieri; his tomb features an equestrian statue with a surprisingly wide, enigmatic smile. These sky-high monuments were designed to ensure the family's glory would never be forgotten, even in death.
Tucked away right next to the Scaliger Tombs is the small, austere Church of Santa Maria Antica. This Romanesque gem served as the private chapel for the Della Scala family. Its simple brickwork and striped stone facade offer a stark contrast to the flamboyant tombs outside. The church dates back to the 8th century, though it was rebuilt after the great earthquake of 1117. It is a place of profound stillness. In the evening, the dim lighting of the surrounding alleyways emphasizes its ancient, spiritual presence. It was here that the lords of Verona sought divine favor and where, for centuries, the family's most private ceremonies took place. The contrast between the humble church and the boastful tombs perfectly encapsulates the dual nature of medieval power.
Your walk concludes at Porta Leoni, a site that offers a rare vertical slice of history. While part of the Roman gate still stands as part of a medieval wall, you can look down into the excavations below street level to see the original Roman foundations and the base of a defensive tower. The gate earned its modern name from two stone lions found nearby. Seeing these ruins at night, illuminated within their glass-protected pits, makes the ancient world feel remarkably close. It’s a reminder that modern Verona is built directly on top of its Roman ancestor, with layers of history stacked like pages in a book. From here, you are only a short walk back to the Arena or the river, having traversed two millennia of Veronese history.
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Explore “Nightfall Mysteries: Legends and Local Lore” with your very own Private Tour Guide with Zigway. Start free on iPhone, skip the large group and the fixed routes, and hear the city come alive as you go.
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