How long does it take to walk the Exoches district?

The route is approximately 3 kilometers long and typically takes 2.5 to 3 hours to complete. This includes time to stop and admire the architecture and read the history of the six main mansions.

Is the Exoches mansion walk worth it?

Yes, it is highly worth it for travelers who want to see a different side of Thessaloniki away from the Roman and Byzantine ruins. The district offers some of the finest Art Nouveau and Eclectic architecture in the Balkans.

Can I enter the mansions on Vassilissis Olgas?

You can enter some of them, such as Villa Bianca and Villa Mordoch, which currently house the Municipal Art Gallery. Others, like Villa Ahmed Kapandji or Villa Hirsch, are often closed to the public or used for administrative purposes.

What is the best time to visit Villa Bianca?

The best time to visit is Tuesday through Friday between 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM when the gallery is typically open. Always check the official municipal website for holiday closures.

Is this walking route family-friendly?

Yes, it is family-friendly as it follows wide sidewalks and includes several small parks and cafes along the way. The stories of 'castle-like' houses usually appeal to children.

Where does the Exoches walking route start?

The walk starts at the Yeni Mosque on Archaeologikou Mouseiou Street, which is easily accessible by bus from the city center.

What architectural styles will I see in Thessaloniki's east side?

You will see a mix of Art Nouveau, Neoclassicism, Neo-Baroque, and Orientalist styles. This 'eclecticism' was the signature look of Thessaloniki's expansion in the late 1800s.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step away from the bustling city center and discover a time when Thessaloniki was the most cosmopolitan port of the Ottoman Empire. This self-guided walk leads you through the Exoches district, once known as the 'Neighborhood of the Countryside.' In the late 19th century, the city's wealthy merchant class—a vibrant mix of Sephardic Jews, Greeks, Turks, and Europeans—moved beyond the old city walls to build opulent summer residences along the coast. Today, these eclectic mansions stand as silent witnesses to a vanished era of architectural experimentation and multicultural coexistence. As you follow this walking route, you will see a stunning array of styles, from Art Nouveau and Neoclassicism to Romanticism and Orientalism. Your journey begins at the Yeni Mosque, a unique monument built for the Donmeh community, before weaving through the grand boulevard of Vassilissis Olgas. You will encounter landmarks like the Villa Ahmed Kapandji, which served as a residence for royalty and revolutionaries alike, and the hauntingly beautiful Villa Hirsch, which whispers stories of the city's dark wartime history. The route concludes at the legendary Villa Bianca, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau that became the setting for one of the city’s most famous and scandalous love stories. This walking tour Thessaloniki offers is more than just a look at brick and mortar; it is an exploration of the families who shaped the modern identity of the city. While many of these structures were lost to the rapid urbanization of the 1950s, the survivors provide a rare glimpse into the 'Golden Age' of Thessaloniki. This neighborhood stroll is perfect for those who appreciate hidden architectural gems and the layered history of the Mediterranean. Using a self-guided walk format allows you to linger at each gate and admire the intricate ironwork and lush gardens at your own pace.

Highlights

Admire the unique Orientalist architecture of the Yeni Mosque

See the eclectic grandeur of Villa Ahmed Kapandji

Discover the romantic brickwork of Chateau Mon Bonheur

Learn the tragic wartime history surrounding Villa Hirsch

Visit the Municipal Art Gallery housed in the elegant Villa Mordoch

Explore the Art Nouveau beauty and legendary love story of Villa Bianca

Tour Stops (6)

Yeni Mosque of Thessaloniki

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Yeni Mosque, the last mosque built in Thessaloniki during the Ottoman era. Constructed in 1902 by the Italian architect Vitaliano Poselli, it was designed specifically for the Donmeh community—Sephardic Jews who had converted to Islam. The architecture is a fascinating blend of Orientalism, Neoclassicism, and Art Nouveau, reflecting the community’s unique identity. Notice the intricate geometric patterns and the clock towers on the facade. After the population exchange in 1923, it briefly served as the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki. Today, it stands as an exhibition space, symbolizing the city's complex religious and social layers.

Villa Ahmed Kapandji

Just a short walk away is one of the most imposing structures in the district. Villa Ahmed Kapandji was built in the late 1890s for a wealthy merchant of the Donmeh community. The architect, Piero Arrigoni, utilized an eclectic style that was revolutionary for its time. The building is famous not just for its three stories and complex roofline, but for its role in history. In 1917, it served as the residence of Eleftherios Venizelos, the leader of the Provisional Government of National Defence. Later, it housed the National Bank of Greece. Observe the mix of diverse cultural influences in its stone carvings and balconies, which represent the peak of the Exoches district's wealth.

Chateau Mon Bonheur

As you continue along Vassilissis Olgas, you will encounter the striking red-brick facade of Chateau Mon Bonheur, built in 1890. Its name, meaning 'My Happiness Castle,' reflects the romantic spirit of the era. Designed by Frederic Charnot for the Mandrinov family, its architecture leans toward the Romantic and Neo-Gothic styles, rare for Thessaloniki. The distinctive red bricks and arched windows make it stand out from the plastered Neoclassical villas nearby. While it has seen better days, the building remains a poetic reminder of the personal dreams and European aspirations of the city’s 19th-century elite.

Villa Hirsch

Villa Hirsch is perhaps the most somber stop on your walking route. Built in 1911 by Pierro Arrigoni for the Jewish merchant Benoit Hirsch, this Art Nouveau villa features beautiful decorative elements and distinctive ironwork. However, its history is marked by the tragedy of the Holocaust. During the Nazi occupation of Thessaloniki, the villa was used as the headquarters of the Gestapo. The Hirsch family, like many of the city's Jewish citizens, were persecuted. For decades, the building remained empty and shrouded in a sense of mourning. Today, it stands as a silent memorial to the vibrant Jewish community that once called this district home.

Villa Mordoch

This elegant residence was built in 1905 for the Ottoman divisional commander Seifoulah Pasha and later purchased by the Mordoch family. It is a prime example of the 'Eclectic' style, blending Neoclassical, Renaissance, and Baroque elements. The most striking feature is the onion-shaped dome on the corner tower, which gives it a slightly eastern flair. Since the 1980s, the villa has been owned by the Municipality of Thessaloniki and has served as a cultural center and the Municipal Art Gallery. If the gallery is open, step inside to see the preserved interior woodwork and ceiling paintings that hint at the luxury of its original inhabitants.

Villa Bianca Giardino

Your walk concludes at the magnificent Villa Bianca, also known as Casa Bianca. Built between 1911 and 1913 for the wealthy industrialist Dino Fernandez Diaz, it is the city's most famous Art Nouveau landmark. The villa is celebrated for its sweeping staircases, grand balconies, and the legendary romance between the owner's daughter, Aline, and a Greek officer, Spyros Alibertis. Their interfaith marriage caused a scandal in the conservative society of the time. The building suffered significant damage over the years but was meticulously restored in the 1990s. It now houses the Municipal Art Gallery, providing a perfect end to your architectural exploration.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Exoches Mansion walk is widely considered the best for history lovers interested in the city's 19th-century cosmopolitan era. It covers the unique 'Countryside' district where diverse ethnic groups built lavish eclectic villas.