Truc Bach Hidden Gems: Pho Cuon and John McCain

Walking tour in Hanoi

1 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
neighborhoodfood

About This Tour

Escape the frantic energy of the Old Quarter and immerse yourself in the serene, tree-lined streets of Truc Bach with this self-guided walk. Often overlooked by travelers rushing to the Ho Chi Minh Complex, Truc Bach is a pocket of Hanoi that perfectly balances historical gravity with a laid-back local lifestyle. This neighborhood stroll invites you to wander around the smaller twin of West Lake, where the atmosphere shifts from ancient spiritual reverence at the Quan Thanh Temple to the quiet, reflective site of the John McCain Memorial. You will discover how a former 11th-century royal silk-weaving village transformed into a modern culinary hotspot while maintaining its village-like charm. As you explore independently, you'll cross the small bridge into Ngu Xa, a tiny island within the city known for its century-old bronze casting traditions. Today, however, it is most famous for being the birthplace of Pho Cuon—the refreshing, rolled version of Vietnam’s iconic noodle soup. This walking route is designed for those who want to see the 'real' Hanoi: the one where elderly residents exercise by the water, vendors sell fresh produce in circular markets, and the scent of grilled beef wafts through the air. Whether you are a history buff interested in the complex relationship between Vietnam and the United States or a food lover seeking the city's best hidden gems, this self-guided adventure provides a comprehensive look at one of the capital's most charismatic districts. Using this audio walk, you can set your own pace, stopping for a coffee or a snack whenever the mood strikes, ensuring a relaxed and authentic experience of a walking tour Hanoi locals themselves would recommend.

Highlights

  • Marvel at the massive 4-ton bronze statue inside the 11th-century Quan Thanh Temple
  • Reflect at the monument marking where John McCain was captured in 1967
  • Walk through the narrow, vibrant streets of Ngu Xa, the 'island village'
  • Taste authentic Pho Cuon at the very restaurant where the dish was invented
  • Experience the bustling local atmosphere of the circular Chau Long Market
  • Enjoy panoramic views of the lakeside where Hanoi's elite and locals mingle

Route Map

Route map for Truc Bach Hidden Gems: Pho Cuon and John McCain

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Quan Thanh Temple

Begin your self-guided adventure at Quan Thanh Temple, one of the four sacred 'Thang Long Four Gates' that traditionally protected the city. Dating back to the 11th century during the Ly Dynasty, this Taoist temple is dedicated to Huyen Thien Tran Vu, the God of the North. As you walk through the triple-gated entrance, look for the giant banyan tree that shades the courtyard. The centerpiece here is the incredible four-ton black bronze statue of the deity, cast in 1677. It is considered a masterpiece of Vietnamese bronze-working technology. Local legend says that touching the statue’s foot brings good luck, though visitors are now asked to admire its craftsmanship from a respectful distance. Take a moment to breathe in the incense-scented air and observe the intricate woodcarvings before heading toward the lake.

2

Trúc Bạch Lake

Step out toward the water of Truc Bach Lake. While it may look like a single body of water, it was actually separated from the much larger West Lake in the 17th century by the construction of the Thanh Nien causeway. The name 'Truc Bach' translates to 'White Silk.' This refers to a 18th-century palace that stood nearby, where concubines of the Trinh Lords who had fallen out of favor were sent to live. To pass the time and support themselves, they wove a particularly fine, beautiful white silk that became famous throughout the region. Today, the lake is a peaceful retreat where you can see locals fishing or riding swan-shaped paddle boats. It's a perfect spot to observe the contrast between the historic temples and the modern skyline rising in the distance.

3

John McCain Memorial

Along the western edge of the lake, you will find a modest stone monument that marks a significant moment in modern history. On October 26, 1967, during the Vietnam War, US Navy pilot and future Senator John McCain was shot down while on a bombing mission. He parachuted into Truc Bach Lake, nearly drowning before being pulled out and taken as a prisoner of war. The monument depicts a pilot with his hands raised, and interestingly, it was maintained by the local community even during periods of high tension. In later years, McCain returned here several times as part of his efforts to normalize relations between the US and Vietnam. It stands today as a symbol of reconciliation and the complex layers of history embedded in the Hanoian landscape.

4

Phở Cuốn 31

It is time for a culinary breakthrough. Head into the Ngu Xa neighborhood to find Pho Cuon 31. While Pho is usually served as a steaming bowl of soup, this street is the birthplace of 'Pho Cuon'—fresh, wide rice noodle sheets wrapped around stir-fried beef and plenty of cilantro and lettuce. Legend has it that a local chef ran out of broth one night but still had noodle sheets left; she rolled them up with the ingredients on hand, and a new Hanoian classic was born. This specific restaurant is one of the originals. Grab a seat on a plastic stool and enjoy the refreshing texture, dipped in a light 'nuoc cham' sauce. It is the quintessential taste of the Truc Bach neighborhood and a favorite for a light lunch or dinner.

5

Ngũ Xã

As you wander through the streets surrounding the restaurant, you are standing in the historic village of Ngu Xa. For over 400 years, this was the heart of Hanoi’s bronze casting industry. The village was founded by craftsmen from five different districts who moved here to serve the royal court. While many of the traditional workshops have been replaced by trendy cafes and eateries, the spirit of the craft remains. If you look closely at some of the older buildings, you might still see evidence of the foundries. The area is technically an island, connected by small bridges, giving it a distinct, sheltered feel compared to the surrounding city. It is now a 'food street' area, popular with students and young locals who flock here in the evenings.

6

Chợ Châu Long

Conclude your walking route at Chau Long Market. Unlike the more tourist-centric markets in the Old Quarter, Chau Long is a working wet market serving the local Truc Bach community. The building itself is notable for its unique circular architecture. Inside, you will find a sensory explosion: vendors selling mountains of dragon fruit, live seafood in plastic tubs, and bundles of fresh herbs. It is a fantastic place to witness the daily rhythms of Hanoi life. The perimeter of the market is also home to several excellent street food stalls selling everything from 'Bun Dau Mam Tom' to fried tofu. From here, you are perfectly positioned to enjoy a sunset coffee at one of the many cafes overlooking the water as your self-guided walk comes to an end.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through Ngu Xa is ideal for foodies. This area is the birthplace of Pho Cuon, and a route through the island village allows you to sample authentic rolled noodles and fried Pho (Pho Chien Phong) at local institutions like Pho Cuon 31 or Hung Ben.

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Download Zigway to experience "Truc Bach Hidden Gems: Pho Cuon and John McCain" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.

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