How long does it take to walk Testaccio?

A comprehensive neighborhood stroll through Testaccio typically takes between 2 to 3 hours. This includes time to browse the market stalls and visit the Non-Catholic Cemetery.

Is Testaccio Rome worth visiting?

Yes, Testaccio is highly recommended for travelers seeking an authentic Roman experience away from the main tourist hubs. It is famous for being the city's original foodie district and contains unique landmarks like a 2,000-year-old pyramid.

Can I visit the Pyramid of Caius Cestius?

You can view the exterior of the Pyramid for free at any time. The interior is only accessible via pre-booked guided tours, which typically occur on the third and fourth Saturdays and Sundays of the month.

What is the best time to visit Testaccio Market?

The best time is between 9:00 AM and 1:00 PM. This is when the market is most active, all food stalls are open, and the atmosphere is at its most vibrant.

Where is the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome?

The cemetery is located in the Testaccio district, right next to the Pyramid of Caius Cestius and the Porta San Paolo. It is easily reachable via the Piramide Metro B station.

Is Testaccio safe for solo travelers?

Testaccio is a very safe, residential neighborhood. It is well-lit and active throughout the day and evening, making it excellent for solo exploration.

What should I eat in Testaccio?

You should try Roman specialties like 'Trippa alla Romana', 'Coda alla Vaccinara' (oxtail stew), or a sandwich from the market. The neighborhood is the birthplace of many offal-based dishes known as 'Quinto Quarto'.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

While tourists flock to the Colosseum, the soul of Rome’s culinary heritage beats in Testaccio. This neighborhood stroll takes you through the city's original 'foodie district,' a place where ancient history and modern appetites collide. Originally a commercial hub for the Roman Empire, Testaccio became the site of Europe’s largest slaughterhouse in the 19th century, birthing a unique cuisine based on the 'quinto quarto' or the 'fifth quarter'—the offal and cuts traditionally left for the working class. On this self-guided adventure, you will explore the layers of Rome that most visitors miss. Your walking route begins at the vibrant Testaccio Market, a temple to fresh produce and street food, where you can sample Roman classics like trippa alla romana or a gourmet panino. From there, you will encounter the Monte Testaccio, an extraordinary artificial hill made entirely of discarded Roman olive oil amphorae, serving as a 2,000-year-old testament to the city's ancient trade. The journey offers a surprising shift in atmosphere as you visit the Non-Catholic Cemetery, a peaceful sanctuary where poets like Keats and Shelley rest in the shadow of a massive, marble-clad Egyptian pyramid. This walking tour Rome enthusiasts will love provides an intimate look at local life, from the legendary gourmet counters of Taverna Volpetti to the social heart of the district in Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice. Whether you are a history buff or a food lover, this self-guided walk offers the flexibility to linger over a glass of wine or a slice of pizza bianca while uncovering the authentic character of one of Rome's most beloved neighborhoods. Discover the flavors and stories of Testaccio at your own pace, away from the typical crowds, and see why this district remains the true kitchen of the Eternal City. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

Savor local street food at the modern Testaccio Market

See Monte Testaccio, a hill made of 53 million Roman amphorae

Visit the final resting place of Keats and Shelley at the Non-Catholic Cemetery

Marvel at the 2,000-year-old Pyramid of Caius Cestius

Experience the gourmet heritage of the Volpetti family

Discover the working-class roots of Roman 'Quinto Quarto' cuisine

Tour Stops (6)

Testaccio Market

Start your self-guided adventure at the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio. This isn't just a place to buy groceries; it's the social and culinary heart of the neighborhood. When the market moved to this modern, light-filled space in 2012, Roman ruins were discovered beneath the floor—you can actually see them through glass panels in the ground. The stalls here range from traditional butchers to high-end street food vendors. Look for 'Mordi e Vai' for classic Roman sandwiches or 'Casa Manco' for artisanal pizza by the slice. This market embodies the evolution of Testaccio from a rough-and-tumble slaughterhouse district to a refined foodie destination. Note that the market typically winds down by mid-afternoon and is usually closed on Sundays.

Monte Testaccio (Monte dei Cocci)

Look up at the green hill before you. It may look like a natural formation, but it is actually one of the world's largest ancient landfills. Known as Monte dei Cocci, this hill is composed of approximately 53 million broken pieces of Roman olive oil amphorae. From the 1st to the 3rd century AD, these clay vessels were imported from across the Empire, emptied at the nearby Tiber river docks, and discarded here in a remarkably organized fashion. Today, the base of the hill is lined with restaurants and nightclubs carved directly into the ancient pottery shards, which provide natural climate control. While the summit is usually closed to the public without a special permit, the view from the perimeter offers a staggering sense of Roman logistics.

Non-Catholic Cemetery

Tucked away behind high stone walls is the Cimitero Acattolico, often cited as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. It was established for non-Catholics who were forbidden from being buried in consecrated ground, including Protestants, Jews, and Orthodox Christians. The atmosphere here is a serene contrast to the bustling market you just left. Among the lush greenery and wandering cats, you will find the graves of English Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Look for the 'Angel of Grief' statue, a poignant monument that has become an icon of the cemetery. This site is a testament to Rome’s long-standing international community and offers a peaceful moment for reflection.

Pyramid of Caius Cestius

Standing directly adjacent to the cemetery is one of Rome’s most unexpected sights: a 36-meter-high white marble pyramid. Built around 12 BC as a tomb for Caius Cestius, a wealthy Roman magistrate, it reflects the 'Egyptomania' that swept Rome after the conquest of Egypt in 30 BC. While most Roman funerary monuments have crumbled over the millennia, this pyramid survived because it was incorporated into the Aurelian Walls in the 3rd century AD to serve as a defensive fortification. Its sharp lines and gleaming Carrara marble make it a favorite for photographers. It remains the only ancient Egyptian-style pyramid in Europe, standing as a stark reminder of the reach and varied tastes of the Roman Empire.

Taverna Volpetti

As you head back into the residential streets, you encounter Taverna Volpetti, the sister restaurant to the world-famous Volpetti deli nearby. The Volpetti family has been a cornerstone of Testaccio’s gourmet scene for decades, specializing in high-quality cured meats, cheeses, and truffles. This area is the perfect place to appreciate the neighborhood’s transition into a culinary powerhouse. Unlike the tourist-heavy center of Rome, the shops here cater to locals who take their ingredients seriously. If you have time, peek into the nearby deli on Via Marmorata to see rows of hanging prosciutto and wheels of pecorino romano. It is a sensory experience that defines the neighborhood’s dedication to quality and tradition.

Piazza di S Maria Liberatrice

Your neighborhood stroll concludes in the main square of Testaccio. Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice is the district's living room. Surrounded by fascist-era architecture and the large church for which it is named, the square features a central playground where local children play and seniors sit on benches to gossip. It is the perfect spot to observe the daily rhythms of Roman life. This square represents the resilience of the Testaccio community; despite the neighborhood's gentrification, it maintains a fierce local identity and a slower pace of life. From here, you are perfectly positioned to find a local trattoria for a traditional dinner of Cacio e Pepe or Carbonara, the true rewards of a walk through this district.

Frequently Asked Questions

The best way to explore is a self-guided walk that combines the Testaccio Market with historical sites like Monte Testaccio and the Pyramid. This allows you to sample street food at your own pace while uncovering the neighborhood's Roman history.