Step away from the bustling Zócalo and into the quiet, kaleidoscopic streets of Jalatlaco, widely considered Oaxaca’s most enchanting neighborhood. This neighborhood stroll takes you through an area that predates the city center, originally established as a separate village for indigenous Mexican allies of the Spanish. Today, it has transformed from a humble tanning district into a premier destination for art and photography enthusiasts. As you navigate the winding cobblestone alleys, you will encounter a living gallery where traditional colonial architecture meets cutting-edge contemporary murals. This self-guided walk is designed to help you discover the hidden stories behind the vibrant facades at your own pace. Historically, Jalatlaco was the center of Oaxaca’s leather industry, a legacy preserved in street names like Calle de las Curtidurías. While the tanneries have mostly vanished, they have been replaced by a thriving creative community. The route highlights the neighborhood's transition, showcasing how local artists use the century-old walls as canvases to tell stories of Zapotec heritage, modern social movements, and the iconic imagery of the Day of the Dead. Because street art is inherently temporary, this neighborhood stroll offers a unique snapshot of the city's creative pulse that changes with the seasons. Beyond the murals, the route leads you to the spiritual heart of the barrio, the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco, a stunning example of 18th-century religious architecture. You will also experience the neighborhood's modern evolution, passing by boutique cafes and restored homes that maintain the area’s distinct village-like atmosphere. Whether you are looking for the perfect shot for your portfolio or simply want to soak in the local ambiance, this walking route Oaxaca provides a peaceful alternative to the more crowded tourist districts. This is an essential experience for anyone wanting to see the authentic, artistic side of Oaxaca independently. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour
Welcome to the gateway of Jalatlaco. This street serves as the main artery connecting the modern city to this historic barrio. As you begin your self-guided adventure, notice the immediate change in atmosphere; the pavement gives way to cobblestones and the noise of the city fades. This area was originally settled by the Tlaxcalteca people, and for centuries, it remained a distinct community outside the main city limits. Look at the corners and high walls here—this is often where the first large-scale murals appear, signaling your entry into one of Oaxaca's most creative hubs.
Calle de la Alianza is widely regarded as one of the most photogenic streets in Oaxaca. It is a prime example of the neighborhood's artistic transformation. The walls here are frequently updated with new street art, ranging from surrealist depictions of Oaxacan flora to portraits of local legends. Please note that street art is ephemeral by nature; the mural you see today might be replaced by a new masterpiece tomorrow, making every visit a unique experience. Take a moment to look down the side alleys, where smaller stencils and hidden tags often reveal the more experimental side of the local art scene.
At the center of the neighborhood stands the Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco. Built in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, this church is famous for its striking yellow facade and red accents. It was constructed over an earlier 16th-century chapel, reflecting the deep roots of this community. The small plaza in front of the church often serves as a gathering place for locals. Notice the intricate stone carvings around the entrance, a hallmark of the regional baroque style. This spot offers a quiet moment of reflection and a glimpse into the spiritual heart that has sustained Jalatlaco for generations.
This corner highlights the successful adaptive reuse of historic buildings in the neighborhood. While Jalatlaco has seen a surge in popularity, many of its businesses are housed in carefully restored colonial structures that respect the original aesthetic. The architecture here features thick adobe walls and traditional wooden doors, designed to keep interiors cool in the Oaxacan sun. It is a great place to observe the intersection of traditional life and the burgeoning culinary scene. The surrounding buildings often feature murals that pay homage to traditional Oaxacan food culture, like agave plants and corn.
The name of this street, 'Curtidurías,' literally translates to 'Tanneries.' For over three centuries, this was the industrial heart of the neighborhood, where leather was processed and dyed. The proximity to the Jalatlaco River (now largely underground) made it an ideal location for this water-intensive trade. While the smell of tanning hide has long since been replaced by the aroma of freshly roasted coffee, the architectural layout—with large courtyards and wide entrances—recalls its industrial past. This street remains one of the most tranquil parts of the walk, perfect for capturing the textures of weathered wood and stone.
As you conclude your neighborhood stroll on Calle de Ignacio Aldama, you are positioned at the edge of the barrio where it begins to blend back into the Centro Histórico. This street often features some of the largest and most intricate murals in the area, often spanning entire building lengths. It is a fantastic spot to reflect on the contrast between the historic tanning district and the modern 'cool' neighborhood Jalatlaco has become. From here, you are just a short walk away from the bustling ADO bus station or a ten-minute walk back to the Santo Domingo church area.
Download Zigway to experience "Vibrant Murals and Cobblestones of Jalatlaco" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.
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