Sachsenhausen Cider Trail: Ebbelwoi and Old Taverns

Walking tour in Frankfurt

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodculture

About This Tour

Escape the gleaming glass skyscrapers of the Financial District and cross the Main River to discover Frankfurt's rustic soul. This self-guided walking route leads you into the heart of Sachsenhausen, a neighborhood that feels worlds apart from the modern city center. Known locally as 'Dribbdebach' (over the stream), this area is the spiritual home of 'Ebbelwoi'—Frankfurt's crisp, tart apple cider. This neighborhood stroll captures the essence of Hessian hospitality, winding through narrow cobblestone alleys and past timber-framed houses that have stood for centuries. Your journey begins at the riverside Dreikönigskirche, offering a perfect vantage point to see the skyline before diving into the historic core. You will explore the remnants of the medieval city walls at the Kuhhirtenturm and learn the legend of the 'Frau Rauscher' fountain, whose namesake is a local folk icon. As you navigate this walking tour Frankfurt, the air begins to smell of savory 'Handkäs mit Musik' and grilled schnitzel, signaling your arrival in the tavern district. This is not just a food tour; it is a deep dive into a cultural ritual where communal tables and stone pitchers, known as 'Bembels', bring people together. The route highlights two of the most legendary cider houses in the city: Zum Gemalten Haus and Adolf Wagner. These establishments are living museums of Frankfurt culture, featuring ornate murals and a bustling atmosphere that has remained unchanged for generations. Whether you are a solo explorer or traveling with friends, this self-guided walk offers the flexibility to linger over a glass of cider or move quickly through the historic sites. Discover why this neighborhood remains the favorite haunt for locals and a must-see for any traveler seeking an authentic German experience. This walking tour Frankfurt provides the perfect blend of architectural history and culinary tradition, making it an essential addition to any visit to the Main metropolis. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • The stunning Neo-Gothic architecture of the Dreikönigskirche
  • Kuhhirtenturm, the medieval tower where composer Paul Hindemith once lived
  • The legendary Frau Rauscher fountain and its cheeky secret
  • Traditional 'Ebbelwoi' culture in the cobblestone streets of Alt-Sachsenhausen
  • Vibrant murals and historic atmosphere at Zum Gemalten Haus
  • A visit to Adolf Wagner, one of Frankfurt's most iconic cider institutions

Route Map

Route map for Sachsenhausen Cider Trail: Ebbelwoi and Old Taverns

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Dreikönigskirche

Welcome to the starting point of your neighborhood stroll. The Dreikönigskirche, or Church of the Three Kings, is a striking Neo-Gothic landmark completed in 1881. While it looks ancient, it actually replaced a much older 14th-century chapel dedicated to the Magi. Stand for a moment on the riverbank here; this spot offers one of the best views of Frankfurt's 'Mainhattan' skyline across the water. The church's red sandstone facade is a classic example of the materials used in historic Frankfurt. It serves as a symbolic gatekeeper between the modern city across the bridge and the traditional, laid-back atmosphere of Sachsenhausen that you are about to explore.

2

Kuhhirtenturm

Walking inland, you encounter the Kuhhirtenturm, or Cowherd's Tower. This late-Gothic structure dates back to the late 14th century and was once part of the defensive fortifications protecting Sachsenhausen. Its name comes from its original purpose: it was the residence of the local cowherd. However, it is most famous for its 20th-century resident, the modernist composer Paul Hindemith, who lived and worked here in the 1920s. Today, it houses a museum dedicated to his life. The tower stands as a rare survivor of the medieval city, surrounded by the evolving urban landscape, and marks your entry into the older, more intimate parts of the district.

3

Apfelweinwirtschaft Frau Rauscher

You are now entering the heart of Alt-Sachsenhausen. Look for the statue of Frau Rauscher, a legendary local figure known for her sharp tongue and her love of apple cider. Be careful as you pass by—the fountain is known to occasionally 'spit' water at unsuspecting passersby! This area is the epicenter of Frankfurt's cider culture. The tavern named after her is a perfect example of a traditional 'Wirtschaft.' Here, you'll see the 'Bembel,' the grey stoneware jugs decorated with blue floral patterns used to serve the cider. The drink itself, 'Ebbelwoi,' is a tart, refreshing apple wine that has been the local beverage of choice for over 250 years.

4

Affentorplatz

Affentorplatz serves as a central hub for the neighborhood. The name 'Affentor' literally translates to 'Monkey Gate,' though historians believe it actually derives from 'Acker-Tor' or 'Field Gate,' as it led out to the agricultural lands. This square marks the transition between the narrow, nightlife-heavy alleys of Old Sachsenhausen and the broader, more residential streets. It is a great place to observe the local rhythm of life. Note the blend of architecture here, from post-war reconstructions to surviving historic elements. From here, the route shifts toward the grander, more established cider houses that have become symbols of the city's culinary heritage.

5

Zum Gemalten Haus

As you walk down Schweizer Straße, you'll find Zum Gemalten Haus, which means 'The Painted House.' This is one of the most visually stunning taverns in Frankfurt. Its facade and interior are covered in intricate murals depicting scenes of traditional life, cider making, and local folklore. Step inside the courtyard to see the vibrant artwork that gives the establishment its name. This tavern has been serving locals since the 19th century. Notice the 'Geripptes' glasses on the tables—the diamond pattern isn't just for decoration; historically, it provided a better grip for diners who might have greasy hands from eating traditional hearty fare like pork knuckles.

6

Adolf Wagner

Your final stop is perhaps the most famous cider house in the world: Adolf Wagner. Owned by the same family since 1931, this institution is the epitome of the Frankfurt 'Ebbelwoi' experience. The atmosphere is loud, bustling, and unpretentious. Don't be surprised if you are asked to share a long wooden table with strangers—it's part of the tradition! This is the perfect place to try 'Handkäs mit Musik,' a pungent sour milk cheese marinated in onions and vinegar (the 'music' refers to the flatulence caused by the onions). As you conclude your self-guided adventure, enjoy the timeless energy of a place that remains a cornerstone of Frankfurt's social life.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk is the best way to experience the neighborhood at your own pace. This allows you to linger in the historic cider taverns or spend more time at the medieval towers without following a rigid schedule.

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