Is a walking tour Fes necessary to find the Blue Gate?

While the medina is a labyrinth, the Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud) is easily found by following the main thoroughfare of Tala’a Kebira uphill. A self-guided walk is often sufficient as long as you stay on the two primary arteries.

What is the best time to visit the Attarin spice market?

The best time is between 10:00 AM and 12:00 PM. During these hours, all the stalls are open, the colors are most vibrant in the morning light, and the market hasn't reached its peak afternoon congestion.

Can I use a stroller on the Tala’a Kebira route?

It is possible but challenging. The street is paved with uneven stones and has several sections with shallow steps, meaning you will frequently need to lift the stroller.

Are there public restrooms along the Tala’a Sghira?

Public restrooms are very scarce in Fes el Bali. It is highly recommended to use the facilities at cafes like Cafe Clock or restaurants near Bab Boujloud.

What should I buy while exploring the two arteries of Fes?

These streets are famous for leather goods, hand-carved cedar wood, traditional spices, and artisanal pottery. Tala’a Kebira is particularly known for its food stalls and leather workshops.

Is the Fes medina safe for solo travelers?

Yes, it is generally safe for solo travelers during daylight hours. Stick to the main streets like Tala’a Kebira, ignore unofficial 'guides' offering help, and keep your phone and wallet secure.

What is the significance of the colors on Bab Boujloud?

The gate features blue mosaics on the exterior, representing the city of Fes, and green mosaics on the interior, which is the traditional color of Islam.

The Two Arteries: Tala'a Kebira and Tala'a Seghira | Walking Tour

About This Tour

Step into the medieval heart of Morocco with this self-guided walk through Fes el Bali, the world's largest car-free urban zone. This route focuses on the two legendary 'arteries' that pulse with the city's lifeblood: Tala’a Kebira (the Big Slope) and Tala’a Sghira (the Little Slope). These parallel streets are more than just thoroughfares; they are the architectural and social spine of a city that has remained largely unchanged for a millennium. As you navigate the labyrinth, you will experience the transition from the intensely aromatic spice markets of Attarin to the rhythmic hammering of the woodworkers in Place Nejjarine. This neighborhood stroll is designed for those who want to immerse themselves in local history without the pressure of a group. You will discover the intricate relationship between commerce and faith, passing ancient caravanserais that once housed silk merchants and hidden madrasas adorned with breathtaking zellij tilework. This walking route Fes offers a deep dive into the sensory overload of the medina, from the smell of freshly tanned leather to the sight of donkey carts navigating narrow stone alleys. Whether you are one of the many curious shoppers looking for authentic handicrafts or a history enthusiast tracing the footsteps of the Idrisid dynasty, these two streets provide the perfect framework for independent exploration. The journey concludes at the iconic Bab Boujloud, the 'Blue Gate,' which serves as the grand threshold between the ancient city and the modern world. By following this audio walk, you can set your own pace, stopping for a mint tea whenever the spirit moves you while learning about the hidden symbols and stories etched into the cedar doors and limestone walls of this UNESCO World Heritage site. This is the definitive way to experience the culture and grit of Fes el Bali on your own terms.

Highlights

The aromatic spice stalls of the Attarin market

The 18th-century Nejjarine Fountain and its intricate woodcarvings

Navigating the bustling commerce of Rue Tala’a Kebira

Finding hidden gems and local workshops along Rue Tala’a Sghira

A cultural break at the famous Cafe Clock

The majestic blue and green mosaics of Bab Boujloud

Tour Stops (6)

Attarin Market

Welcome to the sensory gateway of Fes. The Attarin market, or Souk al-Attarine, has been the city's primary spice and perfume center for centuries. As you stand here, notice the towering sacks of colorful spices—vibrant yellow turmeric, deep red paprika, and earthy cumin. Historically, this area was situated close to the Kairaouine Mosque to ensure that the scents of the market complemented the spiritual atmosphere. The merchants here don't just sell ingredients; they sell remedies and traditions passed down through generations. Look up at the wooden lattices overhead, designed to filter the intense Moroccan sun, creating a dappled light that dances over the copper bowls and glass perfume vials. It is the perfect place to begin your self-guided adventure through the heart of the medina.

Place Nejjarine

You have arrived at Place Nejjarine, the Square of the Carpenters. The rhythmic tapping you hear is the sound of artisans working with cedar wood, a craft that has defined this corner of Fes for hundreds of years. The centerpiece of the square is the Nejjarine Fountain, a masterpiece of 18th-century zellij tilework and carved plaster. Above the fountain, a massive cedar canopy protects the intricate mosaics from the elements. Adjacent to it stands the Fondouk Nejjarine, a former caravanserai where traveling merchants once stayed with their goods. Today, it serves as a museum of wooden arts and crafts. Take a moment to appreciate the symmetry and detail of the architecture here; it represents the pinnacle of Moroccan craftsmanship and the city's historical wealth.

Rue Talaa Kebira

Now you are walking on Rue Tala’a Kebira, the 'Big Slope.' This is one of the two longest and most important streets in Fes el Bali. Unlike the narrow side alleys, this street was built wide enough for two loaded camels to pass each other. As you descend, you will pass everything from butcher shops with hanging camel heads to stalls selling handmade leather slippers called babouches. Keep an eye out for the 'houses of the clock' and the various 'funduqs'—ancient inns—that line the street. Tala’a Kebira is the commercial spine of the city, where the history of trade is written into every stone. It is a place where medieval infrastructure still supports a thriving, modern economy.

Rue Talaa Sghira

Turning onto Rue Tala’a Sghira, or the 'Little Slope,' you’ll notice a shift in atmosphere. While Tala’a Kebira is grand and commercial, Tala’a Sghira is more intimate and residential. This street runs parallel to its larger sibling and was historically the route used by locals to avoid the heavy traffic of the main market. Here, the workshops are smaller, focusing on specialized crafts like tailoring and metalwork. You will see more local bakeries where residents bring their dough to be baked in communal ovens. The architecture here is tighter, with overhead 'sabbats' or arched passages that connect houses across the street, providing shade and structural support. It offers a quieter, more domestic perspective on life within the old city walls.

Cafe Clock

Tucked away in a beautifully restored riad, Cafe Clock has become a modern institution in Fes. While it is famous for its 'camel burger,' it is even more significant as a cross-cultural hub. This is a place where traditional Moroccan storytelling, calligraphy lessons, and Gnawa music performances keep ancient arts alive for a new generation. The cafe is spread across several floors, including a rooftop terrace that offers a stunning view of the minarets and the surrounding hills. It represents the 'New Fes'—a city that respects its history but isn't afraid to innovate. It is an ideal spot to rest your feet and reflect on the journey between the two slopes before heading to the final stop.

Bab Boujloud

You have reached the end of the route at Bab Boujloud, the iconic 'Blue Gate.' Although it looks ancient, this gate was actually built in 1913 by the French colonial administration to provide a grand entrance to the old city. Notice the color scheme: the side facing outward is blue, the traditional color of Fes, while the side facing the medina is green, the color of Islam. Through the central arch, you can see the minarets of the Bou Inania Madrasa perfectly framed. This gate marks the transition between the bustling, car-free medina of Fes el Bali and the more open spaces of Fes el Jdid. It is the most famous meeting point in the city and a testament to the enduring beauty of Moroccan design.

Frequently Asked Questions

Walking the two main arteries, Tala’a Kebira and Tala’a Sghira, typically takes 2 to 3 hours. This duration allows for short stops at landmarks like the Nejjarine Fountain and time to navigate the crowds.