Beyond the labyrinthine sensory overload of the Fes medina lies a parallel world of silence, greenery, and architectural splendor. This self-guided walk invites you to step away from the bustling souks and into the 'lungs' of the city. Fes is famous for its dense urban fabric, but its soul is often found in the 'riyad'—the traditional garden courtyard designed as a terrestrial reflection of paradise. On this walking route, you will explore the evolution of Moroccan landscape design, from the formal Andalusian styles of the 19th century to the wilder, romantic charm of restored ruins. Starting at the Dar Batha Museum, a former royal palace, you will witness how intricate tilework and marble fountains create a cooling microclimate. The journey then takes you through Jnan Sbil, the oldest public park in the city, where the sound of ancient water wheels provides a rhythmic backdrop to botanical exploration. You will also see the monumental golden gates of the Royal Palace and the hauntingly beautiful El Glaoui Palace, where history feels etched into every fading mosaic. This neighborhood stroll is perfect for those who want to experience the artistic heritage of Fes at a slower pace, focusing on the interplay of light, water, and flora. Whether you are interested in the history of the Moroccan Sultanate or simply want to find the best spots for photography in Fes el Bali, this audio walk provides the context you need to appreciate these hidden sanctuaries independently.

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour
Begin your exploration at Dar Batha, a 19th-century summer palace built by Sultan Moulay Hassan I. While the museum houses an incredible collection of Fassi embroidery and woodcarvings, the heart of the complex is its Andalusian garden. Notice the symmetry of the walkways and the central fountain, a design intended to evoke the gardens of Al-Andalus in Spain. The garden serves as a cooling oasis; the dense planting and water features can lower the temperature by several degrees. Look for the famous 'Fes Blue' pottery on display, which mirrors the colors of the sky often reflected in the garden's basins.
A short walk leads you to Jnan Sbil, also known as Bou Jeloud Gardens. This is the oldest public park in Fes, established in the 18th century by Sultan Moulay Abdallah. Spanning nearly 8 hectares, it features over 3,000 plant species. As you wander, listen for the 'noria'—a traditional water wheel—which represents the ancient hydraulic engineering that once powered the city's fountains and hammams. The park is a rare open space in a city of narrow alleys, offering a glimpse into the daily life of locals who come here to escape the medina's intensity.
While the interior of the Royal Palace remains closed to the public, its 'Seven Gates' are a masterpiece of Moroccan craftsmanship. These massive brass doors are framed by intricate 'zellij' tilework and carved cedar wood. Each door represents a different level of the Moroccan hierarchy. Take a moment to examine the fine detail of the metalwork; the doors are polished regularly to maintain their brilliant golden glow. This site serves as a powerful reminder of the city's status as a royal capital and provides one of the most iconic backdrops for photography in the city.
Step into the faded majesty of the El Glaoui Palace. Built in the late 19th century for the powerful Pasha of Marrakech, Thami El Glaoui, this palace once boasted a private harem, kitchens, and even a cemetery. Unlike the meticulously restored Dar Batha, El Glaoui offers a more raw, atmospheric experience. The peeling paint and weathered tiles tell a story of a family's rise and fall. Explore the vast courtyards where the scale of the architecture reflects the immense wealth and influence the Glaoui family once held over Southern Morocco.
Tucked away in the R'cif quarter, The Ruined Garden is a testament to creative restoration. Once a crumbling riad, it was transformed by Robert Johnstone into a botanical sanctuary. The design embraces the 'romance of decay,' with plants growing through cracked tiles and ancient walls. It is a perfect example of how the traditional Fes courtyard can be reimagined. This stop highlights the 'secret' nature of Fes; from the outside, the plain walls give no hint of the lush, tiered garden hidden within. It is a favorite spot for those seeking a quiet moment of reflection.
End your walk at Riad Laaroussa, a beautifully restored 17th-century merchant's house. The central courtyard features soaring arches and orange trees, but the true highlight is the rooftop terrace. From here, you can see the entire medina of Fes el Bali stretching out toward the surrounding hills. This perspective allows you to see how the hidden gardens you've visited today fit into the dense urban puzzle. The architecture here showcases the 'fassi' style at its most refined, emphasizing privacy from the street while opening up to the sky and the garden within.
Download Zigway to experience "Secret Gardens and Hidden Courtyards" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.
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