How long does it take to walk from the Cowgate to the Sheep Heid Inn?

The walk takes approximately 40 to 50 minutes if you go through Holyrood Park. Most visitors spend about 2.5 to 3 hours in total on this route, including time for drinks and exploring the history of each pub.

Is the Edinburgh pub walk hilly?

Yes, Edinburgh's Old Town is famous for its steep gradients and 'closes.' You will encounter significant inclines when walking from the Cowgate up to Greyfriars and Victoria Street, so comfortable shoes are highly recommended.

Are children allowed in Edinburgh pubs?

Many Edinburgh pubs, like the Beehive Inn and Sheep Heid Inn, are family-friendly and allow children in designated dining areas until 8:00 PM. However, smaller bars like The Royal Oak or The Bow Bar may have stricter 18+ policies.

What is the oldest pub in Edinburgh?

The Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston is widely considered the oldest pub in Edinburgh, with a heritage dating back to 1360. It is located about 2 miles from the city center, making it a great final destination for a historic walk.

Can I do this walking route on a Sunday?

Yes, Sundays are a great time for this walk, as many pubs have a relaxed atmosphere and traditional Sunday roast menus. Some venues, like The Royal Oak, also host folk music sessions on Sunday afternoons.

Do I need to book a table at these pubs?

Most traditional pubs in the Old Town operate on a first-come, first-served basis for drinks. However, if you plan to eat at the Beehive Inn or Sheep Heid Inn, it is often a good idea to check their website for availability during peak times.

Is there a lot of walking involved in this route?

The core Old Town stops are very close together, within 5-10 minutes of each other. The longest stretch is the final leg to the Sheep Heid Inn, which is about 1.8 miles from the Royal Oak.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Edinburgh is a city where history and hospitality are inextricably linked, and nowhere is this more evident than in its legendary drinking establishments. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the atmospheric wynds and closes of the Old Town, tracing the evolution of Scottish brewing from ancient inns to the forefront of the modern craft beer revolution. As you navigate the cobbled streets, you will discover how the city’s dark history and vibrant social life have converged in its pubs for centuries. This walking route offers more than just a glimpse into the local pub scene; it is a journey through time, starting in the rugged Cowgate and winding through the Grassmarket before concluding at a historic gem nestled on the edge of Holyrood Park. Along the way, you will encounter iconic landmarks like Victoria Street, often cited as an inspiration for Diagon Alley, and the touching memorial to Greyfriars Bobby. While the architecture is breathtaking, the true heart of this neighborhood stroll lies in the stories of the people who gathered here—from Enlightenment thinkers to local legends. You will have the opportunity to experience the 'water of life' at specialized whisky bars and sample innovative pints from world-renowned Scottish breweries. Whether you are a fan of traditional real ales or experimental IPAs, this route highlights the best of the city's liquid heritage. Unlike a traditional guided tour Edinburgh provides, this independent exploration allows you to linger over a pint or move quickly between sights as you choose. This walking tour Edinburgh experience is designed for those who want to soak up the authentic spirit of the capital at their own pace, discovering hidden gems that larger groups often overlook. From the haunting echoes of the Grassmarket to the cozy folk-music dens of the Southside, every stop reveals a different facet of Edinburgh’s enduring nightlife and communal culture. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

The modern craft beer hub of the historic Cowgate

The legendary story and Victorian charm of Greyfriars Bobby

Whisky and real ale expertise at the iconic Bow Bar

The 15th-century heritage of the Beehive Inn in Grassmarket

Traditional Scottish folk music atmosphere at The Royal Oak

A visit to Scotland's oldest surviving public house

Tour Stops (6)

BrewDog Edinburgh Cowgate

Start your self-guided adventure in the Cowgate, a street that sits literally beneath the city's bridges. This area was once where cattle were driven to market, but today it is a hub of Edinburgh's nightlife. BrewDog, a powerhouse of the Scottish craft beer movement, established this flagship bar to showcase the 'punk' spirit of brewing. The industrial aesthetic fits perfectly with the rugged stone arches of the Cowgate. Here, you can learn about the rise of modern Scottish brewing and how a small operation from Aberdeenshire sparked a global craft beer revolution. It is the perfect place to sample a contemporary IPA before diving into the more ancient history of the city.

Greyfriars Bobby's Bar

Just a short walk uphill brings you to one of the most photographed corners of the city. This Victorian-style pub is named after the loyal Skye Terrier, Bobby, who reportedly guarded his master's grave in the adjacent Greyfriars Kirkyard for 14 years. The pub itself occupies a ground-floor section of a series of Georgian houses and is a classic example of the traditional Scottish 'howff.' While you admire the bronze statue of Bobby outside, consider how this story of loyalty has become a cornerstone of Edinburgh folklore. Inside, the dark wood and brass fittings offer a glimpse into the 19th-century drinking culture that still defines much of the Old Town today.

The Bow Bar

Located on the upper bend of Victoria Street—frequently called the most beautiful street in Edinburgh—The Bow Bar is a purist's paradise. This no-nonsense establishment is legendary among locals for its vast selection of single malt whiskies and meticulously kept real ales. Unlike many modern bars, it maintains a quiet, conversational atmosphere that harkens back to the Enlightenment era. Notice the traditional gantry behind the bar, which holds over 300 whiskies. It is a fantastic spot to understand the 'Real Ale' movement in Scotland and see why this small, unpretentious room consistently wins awards for the quality of its cellar and its commitment to local spirits.

Beehive Inn

Descending into the Grassmarket, you reach the Beehive Inn, a site that has hosted travelers since the 15th century. This area was once the city's main marketplace and, more darkly, the site of public executions. The Beehive served as a coaching inn where weary travelers would rest after entering the city gates. If you explore the rear of the building, you might find remnants of the old tenement walls. The pub’s history is intertwined with the story of the Covenanters and the rowdy trade fairs of old. It represents the transition from the rough-and-tumble markets of the medieval era to the vibrant social hub the Grassmarket is today.

The Royal Oak

Heading back toward the Southside, you will find The Royal Oak, an essential stop for music lovers. This tiny, multi-level pub is one of the spiritual homes of Scottish folk music. On almost any night, you might find local musicians gathered in the basement or the small 'Lounge' area for an informal session. This is the place to experience 'the craic'—the unique Scottish blend of conversation, music, and community. The atmosphere here is intimate and authentic, showing how the city's pubs serve as vital cultural incubators for traditional arts. Please note that live sessions are informal and times may vary, but the heritage of the space is always palpable.

Sheep Heid Inn Edinburgh

To reach the final stop, you will take a short taxi ride or a scenic walk around the base of Arthur's Seat to the village of Duddingston. The Sheep Heid Inn claims the title of Scotland's oldest surviving public house, with a history dating back to 1360. It is famously said that King James VI was a regular visitor. Beyond its royal connections, the pub features a rare Victorian skittles alley—the last of its kind in Scotland. This inn provides a peaceful conclusion to your route, offering a village-like atmosphere that feels worlds away from the city center, yet remains an integral part of Edinburgh's storied past.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through the Old Town is ideal for beer lovers, as it allows you to visit iconic spots like BrewDog and The Bow Bar at your own pace. This route covers approximately 2 miles and transitions from modern craft breweries to historic 14th-century inns.