Oxford’s Culinary Heart: The Covered Market

Walking tour in Oxford

1 hr 15 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodmarkethistory

About This Tour

Oxford is globally renowned for its academic excellence and 'dreaming spires,' but its culinary identity is just as rich and storied. This self-guided walk invites you to step away from the lecture halls and into the sensory delight of the city's historic food scene. At the center of this experience is the Covered Market, a labyrinth of artisanal shops and local produce that has served Oxford since 1774. On this walking route, you will uncover the stories behind legendary snacks, historic pubs, and the very spot where English coffee culture began. This neighborhood stroll captures the essence of Oxford beyond the textbooks, focusing on the flavors that have sustained students and locals for centuries. Your independent journey starts in the heart of the market, where the aroma of fresh baking and local butcheries fills the air. You will discover the humble beginnings of world-famous brands and visit one of the oldest inns in England, famous for a very unusual collection of neckties. As you navigate the charming lanes like Turl Street, you'll see how the university's history is intertwined with its dining habits. This walking tour Oxford offers is a perfect blend of history and gastronomy, leading you through the evolution of English social life from 17th-century coffee houses to modern ice cream parlors. Whether you are looking for a quick bite or a deep dive into local history, this audio walk provides the flexibility to explore at your own pace. You will find that while the colleges provide the city's intellect, the market and its surrounding eateries provide its soul. Expect to see iconic landmarks while learning about the daily rituals of the people who live and work here. This is a unique way to travel through time, one bite at a time, in one of the UK’s most beautiful cities. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Navigate the historic 18th-century stalls of the Oxford Covered Market
  • Visit the original location of the world-famous Ben's Cookies
  • See the quirky tie collection at The Bear Inn, dating back to 1242
  • Walk the atmospheric Turl Street, home to three historic colleges
  • Stop at the site of the first coffee house in England at The Grand Café
  • Discover local favorites for handmade ice cream at George & Danver

Route Map

Route map for Oxford’s Culinary Heart: The Covered Market

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

The Covered Market

Welcome to the heart of Oxford’s culinary life. Opened in 1774, the Covered Market was originally designed to clear 'untidy' stalls from the main streets. Today, it is a Grade II listed treasure trove. As you walk through the avenues, look up at the high timber roof and notice the variety of traders, from traditional butchers with hanging game to modern florists and jewelers. The market has survived centuries of change by remaining a place for locals, not just tourists. It is a living piece of history where the university and the 'town' meet. Please note that individual stall opening times can vary, but the atmosphere is best captured during midday trade.

2

Ben's Cookies

While you can find Ben's Cookies in London or even Dubai today, this small stall in the Covered Market is where the global phenomenon began in 1983. Founded by Helman Helman and named after her son, the shop focuses on a simple premise: large chunks of chocolate rather than small chips. The logo was even drawn by the famous illustrator Quentin Blake, a friend of the family. The smell of baking dough here is a permanent fixture of the market. It’s a perfect example of how a small local venture can become an Oxford icon, sustained by generations of students looking for a study-break treat.

3

Turl Street

Exiting the market, you find yourself on Turl Street, one of the most picturesque lanes in the city. This street connects the High Street to Broad Street and is flanked by three historic colleges: Lincoln, Exeter, and Jesus. The name likely comes from a 'twirl' or revolving gate that once stood in the city wall nearby. As you walk, observe the mix of independent shops and academic architecture. This street has long been a hub for student life, providing the essential services—from books to tailoring—that have supported Oxford’s scholars for hundreds of years. The atmosphere here changes with the academic terms, vibrating with energy during 'Full Term.'

4

The Bear Inn, Oxford

Tucked away on a quiet corner, The Bear Inn is one of the oldest pubs in Oxford, with roots going back to 1242. While the current building mostly dates to the 17th century, it retains a wonderfully cramped and cozy medieval feel. The pub is most famous for its bizarre collection of over 4,500 snips of neckties displayed on the walls and ceiling. Historically, the landlord would offer a half-pint of beer in exchange for a piece of a customer's club or regimental tie. It is a quintessential English 'local' that has served everyone from town laborers to world-class poets. Look for the low ceilings and uneven floors that tell the story of its age.

5

George & Danver

Known to locals simply as G&D's, this ice cream café is a modern Oxford institution. Founded by an Oxford student in 1992 who missed the ice cream parlors of his home, it has grown into a beloved chain of three shops, each with its own name. George & Danver is famous for its handmade ice cream, baked goods, and late-night opening hours, making it a favorite haunt for students finishing essays. The flavors change frequently based on seasonal ingredients and local whims. It represents the 'newer' culinary traditions of the city—independent, slightly quirky, and deeply integrated into the daily life of the university community.

6

The Grand Café

Our final stop brings us to a site of immense historical importance for social life in England. The Grand Café sits on the exact spot where the first coffee house in England was established in 1650 by a man known as Jacob the Jew. Long before tea became the national drink, coffee houses were the 'penny universities' where people from all walks of life gathered to debate news and politics. The current interior is an opulent nod to the 19th century, featuring gold leaf and marble. It’s a fitting place to end your walk, reflecting on how Oxford's appetite for both food and conversation has shaped the city's streets for over 350 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

The total walking route takes about 60 to 90 minutes. This includes time to browse the stalls at the Covered Market and enjoy a quick snack at one of the stops.

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Download Zigway to experience "Oxford’s Culinary Heart: The Covered Market" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.

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