What is the best walking tour in Saint-Germain-des-Pr)s for book lovers?

A self-guided literary walk is the best way to explore Saint-Germain-des-Pr)s. This route specifically focuses on the 'Lost Generation' writers like Hemingway and Joyce, visiting iconic spots like Shakespeare and Company and Caf) de Flore.

Is the Hemingway walking route in Paris difficult?

No, it is considered an easy walk. There is a slight incline as you walk from the Seine up toward the Panth)on, but the rest of the route through Saint-Germain is flat and pedestrian-friendly.

Can I see Hemingway's house on this walk?

Yes, the route takes you near Place de l'Estrapade, which is just a few doors down from Hemingway's first Parisian apartment at 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine. While you cannot enter the private residence, you can see the commemorative plaque.

Is it worth visiting Les Deux Magots and Caf) de Flore?

Absolutely, as they are central to the history of French literature and philosophy. While they can be busy and priced for tourists, having a coffee on the terrace offers a direct connection to the era of Hemingway and Sartre.

What is the best time of day for this Saint-Germain walking route?

Late morning is ideal. You can start when Shakespeare and Company opens at 10:00 AM and reach the Saint-Germain cafes just in time for a pre-lunch coffee or aperitif.

Are there many stairs on this walking route?

There are very few stairs on the main route. The walk is mostly on city sidewalks, making it accessible for most travelers, though the Latin Quarter has some narrow and older pavements.

Where does the Hemingway literary walk start?

The walk begins at the Shakespeare and Company bookstore, located at 37 Rue de la B)cherie, directly across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

1 hr 45 min

Duration

6

Stops

Easy

Difficulty

About This Tour

The Left Bank of the Seine has long been the intellectual heartbeat of Paris, but during the 1920s, it became a sanctuary for a group of expatriate writers known as the "Lost Generation." This self-guided walk invites you to trace the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and James Joyce through the winding streets of the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Pr)s. This isn't just a neighborhood stroll; it's an immersion into a world of jazz, absinthe, and revolutionary literature. Starting at the legendary Shakespeare and Company, you’ll explore the roots of English-language literature in France. The route then ascends towards the Panth)on and the quiet corners of the 5th arrondissement, where Hemingway lived in humble apartments while writing his early masterpieces. You'll see the cafes where these icons spent their afternoons debating philosophy and the hotels where they sought refuge. A walking tour Paris often focuses on the big monuments, but this literary adventure dives deeper into the soul of the city. You’ll visit the iconic Les Deux Magots and Caf) de Flore, where the lines between art and life blurred daily. These weren't just eateries; they were the "offices" of the world's greatest thinkers. The journey concludes at L'H)tel, a place steeped in history where Oscar Wilde spent his final days, marking the transition from the Belle )poque to the modern era. As you follow this walking route, you have the freedom to stop for a caf) cr)me exactly where Hemingway might have sat. There is no need for a guided tour Paris when the city itself speaks through its historic facades and cobblestone alleys. This independent exploration allows you to absorb the atmosphere of the "Moveable Feast" at your own pace. Whether you are a bibliophile or a history enthusiast, this audio walk provides a window into a vanished world that continues to shape the cultural identity of Paris today.

Highlights

The legendary Shakespeare and Company bookstore
Hemingway's old neighborhood near the Panth)on
The atmospheric Place de l'Estrapade
Literary history at Les Deux Magots and Caf) de Flore
The site of Oscar Wilde's final residence at L'H)tel

Route Map

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Shakespeare and Company

Begin your journey at perhaps the most famous bookstore in the world. While the current shop was opened by George Whitman in 1951, it carries the spirit of Sylvia Beach’s original 1919 bookstore. Beach was the patron saint of the Lost Generation, famously publishing James Joyce's 'Ulysses' when no one else would. Hemingway used to borrow books here when he was too poor to buy them, often recording his visits in his memoir, 'A Moveable Feast.' Look up at the 'Tumbleweed' beds nestled among the shelves, where aspiring writers still sleep in exchange for working in the shop. This building, a former 17th-century monastery, remains a beacon for the English-speaking literary community in Paris.

2

Panth)on

As you walk up the hill, the massive dome of the Panth)on dominates the skyline. Originally built as a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve, it became a secular mausoleum during the French Revolution. It houses the remains of France's most distinguished citizens, including literary giants like Victor Hugo, )mile Zola, and Voltaire. For the Lost Generation writers, this monument served as a constant geographical anchor. Hemingway often walked past these columns on his way to the Place de la Contrescarpe, observing the contrast between the grandeur of France's 'Great Men' and the gritty, impoverished lives of the workers living in the nearby narrow alleys during the 1920s.

3

Place de l'Estrapade

This charming square feels like a village within the city. Just steps away, at 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Hemingway lived in a small, third-floor apartment with his first wife, Hadley, and their son, Bumby. The apartment had no running water and a primitive toilet, yet Hemingway recalled these as some of his happiest days. This neighborhood provided the raw material for his early sketches of Parisian life. Today, while the square is known to many as a filming location for 'Emily in Paris,' for the literary traveler, it represents the humble beginnings of a Nobel Prize winner who sharpened his craft in the local cafes while struggling to stay warm.

4

Les Deux Magots

Arriving in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pr)s, you encounter Les Deux Magots. Named after the two Chinese wooden statues inside, this cafe became the unofficial headquarters for the international intelligentsia. Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and later, the Existentialists like Jean-Paul Sartre, made this their second home. Hemingway famously wrote parts of 'The Sun Also Rises' here. In the 1920s, the terrace was a place to see and be seen, where a single coffee could buy you an entire afternoon of writing time and intellectual debate. It remains one of the most iconic spots to observe the Parisian 'art de vivre' while imagining the ghosts of literary legends at the next table.

5

Caf) de Flore

Just a few steps away sits the eternal rival of Les Deux Magots: Caf) de Flore. While both cafes hosted the same crowd, the Flore was known for being slightly more rebellious. During the Nazi occupation, it became a sanctuary for Simone de Beauvoir and Sartre because the red heaters kept them warm while they wrote their philosophical treatises. For the Lost Generation, these two cafes were the center of the universe. The rivalry between the two establishments continues today, with each hosting its own prestigious literary prize. Notice the classic Art Deco interior, which has remained largely unchanged since the days when the air was thick with cigarette smoke and revolutionary ideas.

6

L'H)tel | A Curious Group of Hotels

Conclude your walk at this discreet, luxury boutique hotel on Rue des Beaux-Arts. Before it was a five-star destination, it was a modest boarding house where Oscar Wilde spent his final days in 1900. He famously quipped, 'My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.' Wilde's presence here bridge the gap between the 19th-century decadents and the 20th-century expatriates who followed. Later, writers like Jorge Luis Borges and celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor sought out its privacy. The circular staircase and lush decor evoke a sense of hidden history, serving as a quiet finale to your exploration of the Left Bank's storied past.

Frequently Asked Questions

The walk typically takes between 90 and 120 minutes. The distance is approximately 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles), allowing for plenty of time to stop and admire the historic cafes and landmarks.