Bohemian Žižkov and the TV Tower

Walking tour in Prague

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
neighborhoodart

About This Tour

Step away from the crowded alleys of the Old Town and enter the 'Free Republic of Žižkov,' a neighborhood that prides itself on its rebellious spirit, gritty charm, and artistic flair. This self-guided walk takes you through a district that was once a working-class stronghold and is now the epicenter of Prague's bohemian life. As you explore independently, you will witness a fascinating architectural collision where Socialist-era monuments stand alongside avant-garde art installations and serene green spaces. This neighborhood stroll captures the essence of a district that refused to be tamed by history, offering a raw and authentic look at Prague's local culture. The journey begins in the lush slopes of Riegrovy sady, offering one of the most iconic views of the Prague Castle skyline, before diving into the heart of the district's creative scene at Palác Akropolis. You will encounter the towering presence of the Žižkov Television Tower, adorned with David Černý’s famous crawling babies, and the striking, unconventional design of the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. Each stop on this walking route reveals a different layer of the city’s identity, from the solemn halls of the Vítkov National Monument to the quiet, overgrown paths of the Olšany Cemetery. Whether you are interested in modern history, monumental sculpture, or simply finding the best hidden beer gardens, this route offers a comprehensive experience of Prague’s most characteristic suburb. This self-guided adventure is perfect for those who want to discover at their own pace, moving from hilltop vistas to industrial-chic cultural hubs. By the time you reach the final destination, you will understand why Žižkov remains a favorite for artists, students, and locals alike. This walking tour Prague provides a unique lens into the city's 20th-century transformations and its vibrant, contemporary pulse. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Panoramic sunset views of Prague Castle from Riegrovy sady
  • The avant-garde architecture and interiors of Palác Akropolis
  • David Černý’s giant 'Babies' crawling up the 216-meter TV Tower
  • The massive transparent clock of the Church of the Sacred Heart
  • The world's third-largest bronze equestrian statue at Vítkov Hill
  • The hauntingly beautiful Art Nouveau tombs of Olšany Cemetery

Route Map

Route map for Bohemian Žižkov and the TV Tower

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Riegrovy sady

Start your self-guided walk at Riegrovy sady, a park that serves as the green lungs of the city border between the upscale Vinohrady and the gritty Žižkov. Established in the early 20th century, this park is famous for its 'sunset hill,' where locals gather with drinks to watch the sun dip behind Prague Castle. As you walk through, notice the contrast between the neatly manicured lawns and the more rugged terrain as you head toward Žižkov. This is the perfect introduction to the local lifestyle, far removed from the tourist traps of the city center. Grab a spot on the grass and take in one of the most photographed views in the Czech Republic before heading deeper into the district.

2

Palác Akropolis

You are now standing before Palác Akropolis, the beating heart of Žižkov’s cultural scene. This complex is much more than just a venue; it is a monument to the neighborhood's independent spirit. Originally built in the 1920s, it underwent a radical transformation in the 1990s with help from artist František Skála. The interiors are a surreal blend of organic shapes and industrial materials. While the lineup of concerts and theater pieces changes constantly, the building itself remains a landmark of the Czech 'Alternative Scene.' It represents the era when Žižkov transitioned from a neglected working-class area into a sanctuary for the city's artists and intellectuals.

3

Žižkov Television Tower

Rising 216 meters above the city, the Žižkov Television Tower is perhaps the most debated structure in Prague. Completed in 1992, it was once voted the second ugliest building in the world, yet it has become a beloved icon of the skyline. Look closely at the pillars and you will see ten giant, fiberglass babies crawling up and down the structure. These are the 'Miminka' by David Černý, the Czech Republic's most famous provocateur artist. Originally a temporary installation, they became so popular they were made permanent. The tower stands on the site of an old Jewish cemetery, a reminder of the complex layers of history buried beneath the modern concrete.

4

Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně

This striking building on Jiřího z Poděbrad Square is the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. Designed by the renowned Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik and completed in 1932, it looks more like a modern palace or a steamship than a traditional church. Plečnik was heavily influenced by ancient Egyptian and Roman architecture, which is evident in the wide brick walls and the massive, transparent clock face—the largest of its kind in Central Europe. The interior is equally unique, featuring a flat wooden ceiling and minimalist decoration. It stands as a testament to the interwar period's architectural bravery and Plečnik's unique visionary style.

5

National Monument at Vítkov

Prepare for a bit of a climb as you head to Vítkov Hill. Dominating the ridge is the massive equestrian statue of Jan Žižka, the Hussite military leader who never lost a battle. This bronze statue is one of the largest of its kind in the world. The functionalist monument behind him was originally built to honor Czechoslovak legionaries but was later used as a mausoleum for Communist leaders, including Klement Gottwald. Today, it serves as a museum of modern Czech history. The view from the roof or the plaza offers a 360-degree panorama of Prague, making the uphill trek well worth the effort. It is a place where monumentalism and national memory collide.

6

Olšany Cemetery

End your neighborhood stroll at Olšany Cemetery, the largest burial ground in Prague. This is not a place of gloom, but one of immense beauty and quiet reflection. Spanning over 50 hectares, it is the final resting place for roughly two million people. As you wander the paths, you will see a stunning array of Art Nouveau monuments, crumbling family vaults, and ivy-covered gravestones. Many famous Czech writers, artists, and politicians are buried here, alongside soldiers from various European wars. The atmosphere changes with the seasons, from the vibrant greens of spring to the misty, atmospheric stillness of autumn. It provides a peaceful conclusion to your journey through the high-energy streets of Žižkov.

Frequently Asked Questions

A full self-guided walk typically takes between 2 to 3 hours. This includes time to stop for photos at the TV Tower and enjoy the panoramic views from Vítkov Hill, covering a distance of approximately 4.5 kilometers.

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