Embark on a sensory journey through the cobblestone streets of Ghent, a city where medieval history meets a vibrant, sugar-dusted present. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the culinary heritage of Flanders, focusing on the artisanal treats and historic shops that have defined the local palate for centuries. As you wander through the historic center, you will discover that Ghent’s story isn't just written in stone and glass, but also in the recipe books of its legendary bakers and confectioners. From the sharp tang of world-famous mustard to the gooey sweetness of the iconic 'neuzekes' (little noses), this walking route offers a deep dive into the flavors that make Ghent unique. This neighborhood stroll takes you past the iconic Gravensteen castle and through the bustling Groentenmarkt, providing the perfect backdrop for a leisurely exploration. You will learn about the fierce rivalry between cuberdon vendors, the history of the city's oldest bakery, and the innovative spirit of modern chocolatiers who are redefining Belgian sweets. Whether you are a dedicated foodie or simply have a sweet tooth, this exploration allows you to discover the city at your own pace, stopping to sample local delicacies whenever the mood strikes. The route is designed to be flexible, letting you linger in cozy tea rooms or admire the ornate facades of historic candy shops. By the end of this neighborhood stroll, you will have experienced a more intimate, flavorful side of Ghent that many visitors miss. It is a perfect way to combine sightseeing with the simple joy of a well-made pastry or a piece of handcrafted chocolate, all while soaking in the atmosphere of one of Europe's most charming medieval cities.

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour
Start your self-guided adventure at a shop that has been a Ghent institution since 1790. Tierenteyn-Verlent is famous for its mustard, which is still made according to a secret family recipe. Step inside this beautifully preserved shop and you'll see a large wooden barrel from which the mustard is freshly scooped into stoneware jars. Unlike the mild mustards you might find elsewhere, this Ghent specialty is known for its sharp, nasal-clearing kick. While the shop also sells oils, vinegars, and spices, the mustard remains the star. It contains no preservatives, meaning it stays fresh only for a few months—a testament to its artisanal production. It's the perfect savory start before we dive into the sweeter side of the city.
Just a few steps away lies Bakkerij Himschoot, the oldest bakery in Ghent. Operating in this spot since the 16th century, the bakery is famous for its traditional breads and Flemish specialties. Look down as you enter; the bakery actually extends into a historic cellar where the ovens have hummed for generations. This is the place to try a 'massaartjes' or a classic Belgian waffle. The scent of fresh yeast and caramelized sugar often wafts out into the square, drawing in locals and travelers alike. It’s a living piece of Ghent’s history, maintaining traditional baking methods in an increasingly fast-paced world.
You are now at the Groentenmarkt, the historic heart of Ghent's trade. While the name means 'Vegetable Market,' today it is best known for the 'Neuzekes-oorlog' or the 'War of the Little Noses.' You’ll see two rival wooden carts selling Cuberdons—cone-shaped purple candies with a hard shell and a gooey raspberry center. These sweets are a protected local product and must be eaten fresh, as the center eventually crystallizes. The rivalry between the vendors is legendary in Ghent. Grab a paper cone of these 'noses' and decide for yourself which cart reigns supreme while enjoying the view of the nearby Great Butchers' Hall.
Follow the curve of the street toward the Gravensteen castle to find Julie’s House. This beloved 'taartenhuis' (cake house) is located in a charming historic building and is famous for its decadent cakes, cupcakes, and breakfast spreads. It represents the modern evolution of Ghent's sweet tooth—where traditional hospitality meets contemporary pastry design. It’s a favorite spot for locals to enjoy a 'koffie en taart' (coffee and cake) afternoon. Even if you don't go inside for a full sit-down treat, the window display is usually a work of art, showcasing seasonal flavors and intricate decorations that change throughout the year.
Cross the water toward the Kraanlei to see one of the most beautiful facades in Ghent. Confiserie Temmerman is housed in a building decorated with ornate carvings depicting the Seven Works of Mercy. Inside, this family-run shop feels like a time capsule. They specialize in traditional, often hard-to-find Flemish sweets like 'knobbelkes,' 'muilentrekkers' (mouth-stretchers), and Ghentse kletskoppen (lace cookies). The shop is also famous for its 'stropkes'—candies shaped like the noose that serves as a symbol of Ghent’s rebellious history against Emperor Charles V. It’s a place where candy serves as a delicious history lesson.
Our final stop brings us to the cutting edge of Belgian chocolate. Yuzu, led by chocolatier Nicolas Vanaise, is not your typical chocolate shop. Vanaise, who has a background in archaeology, treats his chocolates like edible artifacts. He is famous for combining traditional Belgian techniques with Japanese flavors and ingredients, such as yuzu, wasabi, or smoked tea. The shop itself is minimalist and gallery-like, focusing entirely on the complex flavor profiles of the pralines. Each piece is hand-painted and designed to be a miniature explosion of taste. It’s the perfect modern finale to our journey through Ghent’s culinary evolution.
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