How long is this WWII walking route in Lyon?

The full walk typically takes between 2 to 3 hours, covering approximately 4 to 5 kilometers. This includes time to stop at memorials and walk through the historic traboules of the Croix-Rousse.

Is the WWII walk in Lyon difficult?

The walk is considered moderate. While the first half in the 7th Arrondissement is flat, the final section involves climbing the slopes of Croix-Rousse, which includes steep streets and stairs.

Can I see the prison where Jean Moulin was held?

Yes, the Mémorial National de la Prison de Montluc is a key stop on this route. You can stand outside the walls and, during opening hours, visit the interior where Moulin and many others were imprisoned by the Gestapo.

What are traboules and why are they important for WWII history?

Traboules are unique covered passageways that connect streets through apartment buildings. During WWII, they were vital for the Resistance, allowing members to move unseen by German patrols and escape raids.

Are the stops on this audio walk free to visit?

Most outdoor memorials and traboules are free to view. However, the CHRD museum and the Montluc Prison memorial may have entry fees or specific guided requirements, so it is best to check their schedules in advance.

What is the best time of day for this self-guided walk?

Morning is best, particularly if you wish to visit the CHRD museum. This ensures you have enough daylight to navigate the narrow traboules of the Croix-Rousse safely.

Is this walking route suitable for children?

The walk covers serious historical themes including the Holocaust and wartime execution. While the architecture and secret passages are interesting for all ages, parents should be prepared to discuss these heavy topics with older children.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the clandestine world of wartime France with this self-guided walk through Lyon, a city famously designated by General de Gaulle as the 'Capital of the Resistance.' This evocative route takes you across the city’s historic heart, from the vast squares of Bellecour to the hidden passageways of the Croix-Rousse slopes, revealing the stories of those who risked everything to defy the Nazi occupation. Unlike a traditional walking tour Lyon might offer, this independent journey allows you to absorb the gravity of these sites at your own pace, reflecting on the courage of figures like Jean Moulin and the everyday citizens who turned the city's unique architecture into a weapon of war. As you explore, you will discover how Lyon’s labyrinthine 'traboules'—secret covered alleyways—became the perfect infrastructure for a shadow army. You will visit the site of the former Gestapo headquarters, now a place of remembrance, and stand before the grim walls of Montluc Prison, where thousands of resistance fighters were held. This walking route doesn't just showcase monuments; it connects you to the visceral reality of 1940s Lyon, where the line between life and death often depended on knowing which door led to safety. Whether you are a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, this audio walk provides a deep dive into the human spirit. You'll encounter moving memorials like the 'Veilleur de Pierre' and see the actual sites where clandestine newspapers were printed and distributed under the noses of the occupiers. This experience is designed for those who want to understand the soul of Lyon beyond its culinary reputation, uncovering a legacy of defiance that still resonates in the city's streets today. By following this self-guided adventure, you gain a profound perspective on the sacrifices made for freedom in the very places where history was written.

Highlights

The 'Veilleur de Pierre' memorial to executed resistance fighters

The former Gestapo headquarters at the CHRD museum

The somber National Memorial of Montluc Prison

The secret 'traboules' used by clandestine messengers

The historic Cour des Voraces on the slopes of Croix-Rousse

Insight into the life and arrest of resistance leader Jean Moulin

Tour Stops (6)

Monument de la résistance intérieure - Veilleur de pierre

Our journey begins at the 'Veilleur de Pierre' or 'Stone Watcher.' This silent sentinel stands on the corner of Place Bellecour, at the exact spot where the Gestapo executed five members of the Resistance on July 27, 1944. The execution was a public reprisal for a bomb that had exploded in a nearby café frequented by German officers. Notice the names inscribed on the base; these men were taken from Montluc Prison to be killed here as a warning to the city. The statue itself, carved from a single block of stone, represents a fighter who remains vigilant even in death. It serves as a powerful reminder that while the city was occupied, its spirit was never truly conquered.

Place Antonin Poncet

Just a short stroll from the bustle of Bellecour, Place Antonin Poncet offers a moment of reflection. During the occupation, this area was under constant surveillance. The square is dominated by the tall bell tower of the former Hôpital de la Charité, but for those interested in WWII history, the significance lies in the surrounding buildings. Many of the structures here were requisitioned by the occupying forces. As you walk through the square, imagine the tension of 1942, when the 'Free Zone' of Vichy France was finally occupied by the German army, bringing the full weight of the Gestapo to Lyon's doorstep.

Centre d'histoire de la résistance et de la déportation (CHRD)

You are standing before a building with a dark past. This was once the headquarters of the Sipo-SD, the Nazi security police, and the base of operations for Klaus Barbie, the notorious 'Butcher of Lyon.' It was here that resistance members were interrogated and tortured. Today, it has been transformed into a museum dedicated to the memory of those who suffered and those who fought back. The permanent exhibition uses primary documents and personal testimonies to explain how the Resistance organized itself in the shadows. It is a place of immense historical weight, turning a site of oppression into a center for education and remembrance.

Mémorial National de la Prison de Montluc

This somber brick complex is Montluc Prison. Between 1943 and 1944, it served as a Nazi military prison where over 10,000 people—Resistance fighters, Jewish families, and those who defied the regime—were held in horrific conditions. Most famously, Jean Moulin, the unifier of the French Resistance, was imprisoned here following his arrest in Caluire. The cells were tiny, often holding several people at once, and for many, Montluc was the final stop before execution at an airfield or deportation to the concentration camps. Standing outside these walls, one can almost feel the weight of the thousands of individual stories of courage and tragedy that played out inside.

Passage Thiaffait

We have moved to the slopes of the Croix-Rousse, an area essential to the Resistance's survival. This is the Passage Thiaffait, one of the city's many 'traboules.' Originally built for the silk workers to transport their fabrics while keeping them dry, these secret corridors became the lifeblood of the underground movement. Resistance messengers used these passages to move clandestine newspapers and radio equipment across the city without ever stepping onto a main street where they might encounter a patrol. The 'traboules' created a city within a city, a labyrinth that the occupiers, despite their maps, could never truly master.

Traboule et Cour des Voraces

Our walk concludes at the Cour des Voraces, perhaps the most iconic traboule in Lyon. Its monumental six-story staircase is a masterpiece of 19th-century industrial architecture, but its history is defined by revolt. First used by the 'Canuts' (silk workers) during their uprisings, it was later a vital hub for the Resistance. Clandestine meetings were held in the shadows of these stone steps, and the complex network of exits allowed for quick escapes. As you look up at the towering stairs, you are seeing the physical embodiment of Lyon's rebellious heart—a place where the architecture itself served the cause of liberty.

Frequently Asked Questions

Lyon earned this title because it was the largest city in the 'Unoccupied Zone' until 1942 and became the headquarters for major resistance movements. Its complex network of secret 'traboules' and the work of leaders like Jean Moulin made it the center of clandestine operations.