How long does it take to walk through Vieux Nice?

This foodie trail takes approximately 90 to 120 minutes. The distance is short, roughly 1.5 kilometers, but you will want to allow time for tastings and browsing the market stalls.

Is the Cours Saleya market worth visiting?

Yes, it is a must-see landmark in Nice. From Tuesday to Sunday, it features fresh local produce and flowers, while Mondays are reserved for a famous antique market.

What is socca and where can I try it?

Socca is a traditional Niçois chickpea pancake. You can find the most authentic versions at Chez Rene Socca or Chez Thérésa in the Old Town.

Can I do this walking route on a Monday?

You can, but the experience will be different. The Cours Saleya food market is replaced by antiques on Mondays, and some small food boutiques may be closed.

Is Old Nice accessible for strollers?

The area is mostly flat and pedestrian-friendly, but the historic cobblestones can be bumpy. It is manageable with a sturdy stroller, though some shops are quite small.

What is the best time of day for a food walk in Nice?

Morning is best, specifically between 9:00 AM and 11:00 AM. This ensures the market is in full swing and the socca is fresh from the first morning batches.

What are the must-try foods in Nice?

Don't miss socca (chickpea pancake), pissaladière (onion tart), tourte aux blettes (chard pie), and authentic Niçois olives, all found along this route.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the sensory heart of the French Riviera with this self-guided walk through the labyrinthine streets of Vieux Nice. This walking route is designed for those who believe the best way to understand a culture is through its kitchen. Nice is unique in France; its history is intertwined with Italy, creating a culinary identity known as 'Cuisine Nissarde' that you won't find anywhere else in the country. This neighborhood stroll takes you away from the generic tourist menus and into the authentic soul of the city. Your self-guided adventure begins in the bustling northern edge of the Old Town, where the aroma of wood-fired ovens signals the presence of socca, the city's legendary chickpea pancake. As you explore independently, you will weave through narrow alleyways where laundry hangs overhead and Baroque church bells chime in the distance. You'll discover the liquid gold of the region at specialized olive oil boutiques and learn why the Niçois olive is a protected treasure. The journey continues through the iconic Cours Saleya, one of France’s most vibrant outdoor markets, where the colors of fresh produce and fragrant flowers create a photographer's dream. Along this walking route, you will encounter local institutions that have been family-run for generations. From the cooling sensation of artisanal lavender gelato to the historic elegance of 19th-century confectioneries frequented by royalty, every stop offers a taste of the city's heritage. This walking tour Nice experience allows you to set the pace—stay for a second glass of Rosé or linger at a market stall to chat with a local vendor. Whether you are a dedicated foodie or a curious traveler, this self-guided walk offers an intimate look at the flavors that define life on the Mediterranean coast. Discover why Nice is a culinary capital in its own right as you navigate the charming, sun-drenched streets of the old city. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

Sample authentic Socca from a traditional wood-fired oven

Explore the colorful stalls of the famous Cours Saleya market

Taste artisanal olive oils from the hills of Provence

Choose from nearly 100 flavors of gelato at the legendary Fenocchio

Visit Maison Auer, a 19th-century candy shop once favored by Queen Victoria

Navigate the charming, narrow alleyways of historic Vieux Nice

Tour Stops (6)

Chez Rene Socca

Welcome to the heart of Niçois street food. Chez Rene Socca is an institution where the line often snakes out the door for a taste of 'socca.' This savory pancake is made from simple ingredients—chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt—but the magic happens in the massive copper tins and wood-fired ovens. Traditionally, socca was a cheap, filling snack for local dockworkers. Today, it is the city's most iconic dish. Grab a plate, find a spot at the communal wooden tables, and don't forget to season it with plenty of black pepper. It is best enjoyed hot and crispy right out of the oven.

Oliviera

As you walk deeper into the Old Town, you arrive at Oliviera. In Nice, olive oil isn't just a cooking ingredient; it's a way of life. This boutique celebrates the diversity of the 'Cailletier' olive, the small, dark fruit native to this region. Unlike the heavy oils of Tuscany, Niçois olive oil is known for its delicate, buttery flavor with hints of almond. The shop owners are passionate about direct-from-producer sourcing. Depending on the season, you might find oils with notes of artichoke or fresh grass. It's a reminder that the rugged hills surrounding the city provide the foundation for the entire Mediterranean diet.

Chez Thérésa

A few streets away, you'll encounter the legacy of Thérésa. Since the 1920s, a woman named Thérésa—and the various successors who have taken up her mantle—has been a fixture of the local food scene. While they have a small shop here, look for their famous bicycle-powered cart at the market later. They are known for 'pissaladière,' a thick onion tart topped with anchovies and black olives, and 'tourte aux blettes.' The latter is a surprising Niçois specialty: a sweet Swiss chard pie filled with pine nuts and raisins. It sounds unusual, but it’s a beloved local treat that perfectly bridges the gap between savory and sweet.

Fenocchio Glacier

Positioned in the bustling Place Rossetti, Fenocchio is arguably the most famous ice cream parlor on the French Riviera. Since 1966, the Fenocchio family has been crafting artisanal gelato that reflects the scents of Provence. While they offer classics like chocolate and vanilla, the real draw is their experimental flavors. Look for botanical options like lavender, rose, jasmine, or rosemary. If you're feeling adventurous, they even offer savory-leaning scoops like tomato-basil or black olive. Note that during peak summer months, the square can be quite crowded, but the wait for a cone of thyme-flavored ice cream is a quintessential Nice experience.

Cours Saleya

You have reached the grand stage of Niçois life: the Cours Saleya. This wide pedestrian strip hosts the city’s daily markets. From Tuesday to Sunday, it is a riot of color with flowers, fruits, and vegetables. Look for the 'Petites Olives de Nice'—the tiny, flavorful AOC-protected olives—and the bright yellow lemons from nearby Menton. The striped awnings provide shade for vendors who have been here for decades. This is the perfect place to observe the local 'art de vivre.' Please note that on Mondays, the food stalls are replaced by an antique flea market, which offers a completely different but equally fascinating vibe.

Maison Auer

Our final stop is the exquisite Maison Auer, located just across from the Opera House. Established in 1820, this confectionery is a masterpiece of Florentine style, with ornate woodwork and crystal chandeliers that transport you back to the Belle Époque. They are masters of 'fruits confits' or candied fruits—a traditional method of preserving the harvest by simmering fruit in sugar syrup for weeks. It was a favorite of Queen Victoria during her many winter stays in Nice. As you admire the displays of glazed clementines and chocolate-covered orange peel, you're looking at over two centuries of sweet Niçois history.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided route through Vieux Nice is the best way to explore, focusing on local staples like socca at Chez Rene, olive oil at Oliviera, and the historic Maison Auer.