Troyeville Bohemian Heights

Walking tour in Johannesburg

1 hr 50 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
historyartviewpoint

About This Tour

Perched on a ridge overlooking the sprawling cityscape of Johannesburg, Troyeville is a neighborhood that defies simple categorization. This self-guided walk invites you to explore one of the city's oldest and most eclectic suburbs, where Edwardian architecture meets vibrant street art and a deep-seated history of political activism. Starting in the industrial fringes of Jeppestown and ascending toward the 'Bohemian Heights,' this walking route captures the essence of a community that has long been a sanctuary for artists, intellectuals, and revolutionaries. As you wander, you will discover the legacy of Johannesburg's early mining magnates juxtaposed against the grit of modern urban regeneration. The route highlights the suburb's unique Portuguese heritage, best experienced through its local landmarks and the iconic views from the ridge. You will encounter Bjala Square, a beacon of social enterprise, and the grand Jeppestown Post Office, which stands as a testament to the area's century-old roots. The climb rewards you with a visit to the Spaza Art Gallery, a hidden gem tucked into a residential garden that serves as the creative pulse of the neighborhood. The walk also touches on the somber side of South Africa's struggle for democracy, culminating at the home of David Webster, an academic and activist whose life and tragic assassination remain etched into the pavement of Troyeville. This neighborhood stroll is more than just a sightseeing exercise; it is an immersion into the soul of a suburb that has remained fiercely independent and culturally diverse throughout the decades. For those seeking a walking tour Johannesburg experience that avoids the typical tourist traps, this independent route offers a raw and authentic look at the city's evolution. Whether you are drawn by the panoramic views of the CBD skyline or the intricate mosaic art found on nearly every corner, Troyeville provides a rich tapestry of stories waiting to be uncovered at your own pace.

Highlights

  • Panoramic views of the Johannesburg CBD and Ellis Park Stadium
  • Intricate mosaic art and garden installations at Spaza Art Gallery
  • Historic Edwardian architecture of the Jeppestown Post Office
  • The legendary Troyeville Hotel, a historic hangout for activists and journalists
  • The David Webster House, a significant site in South Africa's struggle for democracy
  • Bjala Square's innovative urban social enterprise model

Route Map

Route map for Troyeville Bohemian Heights

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Bjala Square

Start your self-guided adventure at Bjala Square, a cornerstone of urban revitalization in Jeppestown. The name 'Bjala' means 'beer' in Sesotho, a nod to the building's former life as a brewery warehouse. Today, it stands as a vibrant social enterprise hub. This space exemplifies the 'maker' culture of the area, housing affordable residential units and workspaces for local entrepreneurs. As you stand here, notice the transition from the industrial grit of the lower streets to the creative energy that defines the neighborhood. It is a perfect example of how Johannesburg repurposes its industrial heritage to meet modern community needs, setting the stage for the mix of history and innovation you will see on this walking route.

2

Jeppestown Post Office

A short walk brings you to the Jeppestown Post Office, a grand Edwardian structure that dates back to the early 1900s. Designed during the British colonial era, its red-brick facade and clock tower are hallmarks of the architecture that once dominated the city's eastern suburbs. Jeppestown itself was one of the first suburbs established after the discovery of gold, named after the Jeppe family who were prominent early developers. This building has survived fires and the general decline of the inner city, remaining a steadfast landmark. Observe the intricate masonry and the scale of the building, which reflects the high expectations early residents had for this once-fashionable residential district.

3

Troyeville Baptist Church

As you begin your ascent into Troyeville, the spire of the Troyeville Baptist Church comes into view. Established in 1897, this is one of the oldest Baptist congregations in South Africa. The church's prominent position on the ridge made it a literal and metaphorical lighthouse for the community. Its architecture is simple yet commanding, reflecting the non-conformist religious traditions of the late 19th century. Over the years, the church has witnessed the suburb's demographic shifts, from the early English and Jewish settlers to the large Portuguese influx in the mid-20th century, and finally to the diverse pan-African community that calls Troyeville home today.

4

Spaza Art Gallery

Welcome to the heart of Troyeville’s bohemian spirit. The Spaza Art Gallery, founded by artist Andrew Lindsay, is not your typical white-cube gallery. It is a 'spaza'—a term usually referring to a small informal convenience shop—tucked into a residential property. The garden and walls are a riot of mosaic art, sculptures, and recycled installations. This space has been a sanctuary for local artists for decades, fostering a community-centric approach to art. Take a moment to wander through the garden; the mosaics often tell stories of the city's daily life and political struggles. It is a living workshop where the line between the art and the environment completely disappears.

5

The Troyeville Hotel

No neighborhood stroll here is complete without visiting the Troyeville Hotel. Established in 1924, this venue became legendary during the apartheid era as a 'grey' space where people of all races could mingle, often under the watchful eye of the security police. It was a favorite haunt for anti-apartheid activists, journalists, and writers. Beyond its political history, the hotel is famous for its Portuguese cuisine—a legacy of the many immigrants from Madeira and Mozambique who settled here. From the terrace, you can see one of the best views of the Johannesburg skyline and the nearby Ellis Park Stadium. It remains a cultural landmark where the city's intellectual and grit-loving crowds still gather.

6

David Webster House

The final stop on our walking route is a site of deep historical significance: the former home of David Webster. Webster was an anthropologist at the University of the Witwatersrand and a dedicated anti-apartheid activist. In 1989, he was assassinated by a government hit squad right outside his front door. The house remains a private residence, but the external walls are covered in elaborate mosaics that serve as a memorial to his life and work. This site is a powerful reminder of the high cost of the struggle for freedom in South Africa. It marks the end of our journey through Troyeville, a suburb that has always been a home for those who think differently and stand their ground.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Troyeville neighborhood stroll is highly recommended for art lovers. It features the unique Spaza Art Gallery and extensive street-side mosaics, particularly those at the David Webster House, offering a more intimate look at the local art scene than traditional galleries.

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